VANOS pressure test 40 bar when warm

Discussion in 'E36 M3 (1991-1999) and E30 M3 (1986-1990)' started by exeed, May 9, 2019.

  1. 15 May 2019 at 10:02 PM #21
    NZM3AN

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    Well in that case I'm stumped. That's a lot of pressure to bleed, not sure where it's going. There are no signs of oil leaking between the VANOS unit and the timing chain case?

    I'd probably remove and replace the VANOS if I were in the same situation as you... not that I know what that would actually achieve...
     
  2. 15 May 2019 at 10:12 PM #22
    exeed

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    Yes, taht is weird, because the engine looks dry. There is a small leak at the bottom simply two bolts are sweating, but not as critical so it could leak 60-70 bars of pressure.

    I was thinking the same, simply get a new VANOS unit and get it replaced out of curiocity, but again as for an experiment it is costly pleasure. But I might go that road if nobody would give me other clues.
     
  3. 15 May 2019 at 10:45 PM #23
    NZM3AN

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    I'm not sure I'd get another unit because ultimately they're pretty simple mechanical devices and not much can go wrong. If you remove it and disassemble it I'd imagine you'd be able to visually spot any internal problems. Of course you've yet to replace the internal VANOS seals and I'm not sure if any of them are related to holding pressure but I'd suggest that's the next step. You can skip the rattle kit.
     
  4. 15 May 2019 at 10:47 PM #24
    evoGrant

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    What oil you using and how old is it?
     
  5. 15 May 2019 at 10:49 PM #25
    exeed

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    Liqui Moly Synthoil 5W40, changed about 2k miles ago.
     
  6. 15 May 2019 at 10:51 PM #26
    evoGrant

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    My pressure dropped a bit when using 5w40, it did improve using 10w60.

    How does the car drive, perform when driving hard?
     
  7. 15 May 2019 at 10:59 PM #27
    evoGrant

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    Normally when pressure drops when oil is warm its because parts are worn like main and big end bearings. So my guess is your vanos is the same
     
  8. 15 May 2019 at 11:00 PM #28
    exeed

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    It pulls OK, I would say, but again I do not have anyting to compare with. Also, I do not think, that going from 5W40 to 10W60 would solve this, VANOS cannot be so sensitive to oil grage especially when pressure is so great in the system.

    Another clue that I was thinking of maybe constant pressure valve could cause the problem?
     
  9. 15 May 2019 at 11:02 PM #29
    exeed

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    Some time ago VANOS seals were replaced. Solenoid and cap cover seals, now I have replaced oil pressure resulator seals, so basically all seals are replaced in one year period.
     
  10. 15 May 2019 at 11:03 PM #30
    evoGrant

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    Just read again. Your vanos operates and works on dis. It drives ok so why fix it? Lol
     
  11. 15 May 2019 at 11:07 PM #31
    exeed

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    Because I do not like imperfections :) I not think the system is ok, if mechanical gauge shows oposite. VANOS test yeah... It kina shows if VANOS is adjusted correctly.

    Previously you said meain and big end bearings might be worn, hoow does that relates to VANOS pressure? Sorry if it sounds stupid question.
     
  12. 15 May 2019 at 11:40 PM #32
    NZM3AN

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    There are additional o-rings inside and on the back of the unit. You can't replace all the seals without dismantling the entire unit... my initial understanding was that you've not done that. Have you? If so you can probably eliminate the VANOS itself from being the problem.

    Unless you've had oil pump springs fired across your garage you've not had a full VANOS experience. ;)
     
  13. 16 May 2019 at 6:23 AM #33
    evoGrant

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    No no, I didn't say they are worn.
    If oil pressure drops when warm it usually means something is worn out.
    I should think you need to strip down your vanos and replace all the seals etc.
     
  14. 16 May 2019 at 7:04 AM #34
    exeed

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    So basically in other words it would be best to overhaul the VANOS unit completely. Or as I am thinking to get another unit to try as price for both roughly would be the same.
     
  15. 16 May 2019 at 9:56 AM #35
    evoGrant

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    Yes I think you need to overhaul the unit.
    The seal kit is £96 quid! If you can find a complete vanos unit for that I'll buy 10 Haha.

    Doesn't mr vanos do a fitted exchange unit for around £300?
    Or has his prices changed?
     
  16. 16 May 2019 at 10:06 AM #36
    NZM3AN

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    As suggested on the first page. :)

    But you don't need to do the whole lot since you've already done half, just the 'rings for the unit itself so it should cost you less. And as Grant says, it shouldn't cost too much, basic mechanical skills, the right tools and some patience are all that's required. Heck, you don't even need to remove your solenoids (assuming the were cleaned properly the first time around).

    http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/euro_s50_double_vanos_procedure.htm
     
  17. 16 May 2019 at 12:49 PM #37
    MParallel

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    Inside the unit are tons of seals. Replacing them is something all Evo owner's should do, even if the unit is brand new from BMW, as the seals used are, as mentioned, not designed for high temp and pressure (go figure!).
     
  18. 16 May 2019 at 12:50 PM #38
    MParallel

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    Lol, no sh¡t!
     
  19. 16 May 2019 at 1:12 PM #39
    exeed

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    Okay, so it is obvious, that something of mechanical bits related to heating is causing pressure to drop. Most of you say I should refurbish my VANOS unit, so seems this is the road to take.

    Before I'll do so, I still want to replace pressure accumulator and pressure line which goes from it to VANOS unit.

    I am unsure if I want to do it myself, so what shop would you suggest? It is not problem to send the unit somewhere in Europe to get job done. UK, Germany, Czech Republic, Poland? Any recommendations with contact details and pricing?
     
  20. 16 May 2019 at 2:23 PM #40
    Iain

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    i think you worry too much.

    the vano on my race car has a 148k of hard use on it. its been on and off a few times but never rebuilt. I run 10-60 its had solenoid seals and regulator seals. makes 100 bar on idle hot. if its not broken dont fix it.

    As i have mentioned there is no point changing the accumulator, it is a buffer it is normal to see a pressure drop during advance and retard, its not going to affect peak pressure.

    If you just want to change parts on a whim then of course, crack on, but i don't think its required.
     

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