VANOS High Pressure Line

Andy6527

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I have purchased the HEL high pressure VANOS line, and also a refurbished accumulator as part of my VANOS refresh.

Looking at the new high pressure line, the oil holes inside the pipe seem quite small, a lot smaller than the original, and that led me to thinking, do you need to prime the accumulator or oil line when installing?

Surely if the accumulator is sealed and the oil line goes from the VANOS to the accumulator, how is the air going to get purged out of the system so that oil gets into the accumulator? Or am I just overthinking it, just install and it will sort itself out?
 

PHIL67

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Yep over thinking bud you’ll be best off with a new pressure reg too
 

AC427

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I have purchased the HEL high pressure VANOS line, and also a refurbished accumulator as part of my VANOS refresh.

Looking at the new high pressure line, the oil holes inside the pipe seem quite small, a lot smaller than the original, and that led me to thinking, do you need to prime the accumulator or oil line when installing?

Surely if the accumulator is sealed and the oil line goes from the VANOS to the accumulator, how is the air going to get purged out of the system so that oil gets into the accumulator? Or am I just overthinking it, just install and it will sort itself out?
I have just had my accumulator replaced and had an HEL line fitted. i did wonder about the air in the system too. I would prime the accumulator just because you can but i don't think it is necessary.
 

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Do you mean prime the accumulator by turning the motor over without fuse 51 that’s standard practice for best results the pressure reg needs to be replaced as the spring looses it’s tension over the years it’s got a lot to do with the timing of the engine
 

AC427

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Do you mean prime the accumulator by turning the motor over without fuse 51 that’s standard practice for best results the pressure reg needs to be replaced as the spring looses it’s tension over the years it’s got a lot to do with the timing of the engine
Thanks Phil. I actually meant fill the replacement accumulator with oil beforehand. Is fuse 51 the fuel pump?

I did measure the VANOS oil pressure before all this and just after the accumulator had been replaced. It was around 1300PSI, so a bit low but if it was leaking back through the valve block that might account for the low reading.
 

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Yes fuse 51 is the fuel pump that pressure is very low it should be 104 bar on cold oil that’s around 1500 psi have you checked the pressure after the new accumulator
 

Andy6527

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Do you mean prime the accumulator by turning the motor over without fuse 51 that’s standard practice for best results the pressure reg needs to be replaced as the spring looses it’s tension over the years it’s got a lot to do with the timing of the engine
Will need to prime the whole oil system by cranking with fuse 51 removed anyway, was thinking more about how oil gets forced down the high pressure line into the accumulator if there's nowhere for air to go, so was thinking about pouring some oil into the accumulator and in the new high pressure line.

The accumulator does not have a spring, its Nitrogen charged, and it will have lost some pressure after 20 years.

I got a refurbished one from Auto Accumulators, who recharge the Nitrogen, so they are as good as new.
 

PHIL67

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Who said the accumulator had a spring
 

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if you read the post properly I said the pressure regulator has a spring
 

Andy6527

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if you read the post properly I said the pressure regulator has a spring
Sorry, didn't read your post properly, you were taking about the regulator, not the accumulator.

I didn't replace the regulator, perhaps I should have done that while I was doing everything else, but I guess it can easily be replaced at any time.

I was just concerned about the accumulator getting filled with oil without priming it somehow when installing it, but I guess it just takes care of itself.
 

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If it helps I fitted a hel vanos line a few years back was a straight swap no issues
 

AC427

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Yes fuse 51 is the fuel pump that pressure is very low it should be 104 bar on cold oil that’s around 1500 psi have you checked the pressure after the new accumulator
Hi Mate, It turns out we were both wrong. 100 bar is for, i think the Vanos on the S50 engine.

The S54 Vanos runs at 115 Bar or 1668 PSI, so 1300PSI was even lower than we thought.
 
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AC427

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Will need to prime the whole oil system by cranking with fuse 51 removed anyway, was thinking more about how oil gets forced down the high pressure line into the accumulator if there's nowhere for air to go, so was thinking about pouring some oil into the accumulator and in the new high pressure line.

The accumulator does not have a spring, its Nitrogen charged, and it will have lost some pressure after 20 years.

I got a refurbished one from Auto Accumulators, who recharge the Nitrogen, so they are as good as new.
I think the air gets bled off automatically unless that is the reason for hunting at idle.

There is a BMW tool that allow you to activate the Vanos valves to release the air. You don't need it

I've gone the same route as you. I have a recharged Vanos accumulator from Kevin and a nice new HEL Vanos line.

If you are using the copper washers that come with the HEL line you may need ore than the 13Nm torque on the banjo bolt. Mine was seeping a bit but it could have been that my washers had been reused a bit with the pressure gauge.

I put the BMW washers (smaller OD) on with 13Nm of torque and no oil has seeped. All you have to do with the HEL washers is give them a bit more torque to stop any oil leaking.
 
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PHIL67

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Your right mate it does run at 115bar at 2000rpm 104bar on cold oil
 

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If your copper washers have hardened but are still in good shape, you can anneal them, heat them over a gas flame until cherry red and dunk them in cold water, this will soften the copper and help them to seal.
 

AC427

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Your right mate it does run at 115bar at 2000rpm 104bar on cold oil
Thanks Phil, Where did you see 104 Bar mentioned originally?
 

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I think the air gets bled off automatically unless that is the reason for hunting at idle.

There is a BMW tool that allow you to activate the Vanos valves to release the air. You don't need it

I've gone the same route as you. I have a recharged Vanos accumulator from Kevin and a nice new HEL Vanos line.

If you are using the copper washers that come with the HEL line you may need ore than the 13Nm torque on the banjo bolt. Mine was seeping a bit but it could have been that my washers had been reused a bit with the pressure gauge.

I put the BMW washers (smaller OD) on with 13Nm of torque and no oil has seeped. All you have to do with the HEL washers is give them a bit more torque to stop any oil leaking.

So who’s Kevin and where do you get these new accumulators from just for future reference…?
 

AC427

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Andy6527

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I think the air gets bled off automatically unless that is the reason for hunting at idle.

There is a BMW tool that allow you to activate the Vanos valves to release the air. You don't need it

I've gone the same route as you. I have a recharged Vanos accumulator from Kevin and a nice new HEL Vanos line.

If you are using the copper washers that come with the HEL line you may need ore than the 13Nm torque on the banjo bolt. Mine was seeping a bit but it could have been that my washers had been reused a bit with the pressure gauge.

I put the BMW washers (smaller OD) on with 13Nm of torque and no oil has seeped. All you have to do with the HEL washers is give them a bit more torque to stop any oil leaking.
Well I just got an email back from Kevin at Auto Accumulators, and my old accumulator measured 25 Bar, so well worth replacing. I haven't read too much about people replacing them when doing the whole VANOS rebuild, but if you think about it, it was charged with Nitrogen to 115 Bar like 20 years ago, there's no way that's going to hold that pressure without dropping over 20 years.

Thanks for the tip on the HEL washers. I didn't order new BMW ones as the HEL line came with them, so will try torquing them down a bit tighter. The only issue is the ones on the accumulator, can't really get a torque wrench on it, and when I try with a regular racket, the whole accumulator starts rotating, might have to tighten the bracket round the accumulator a bit more.
 

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