Underside restoration

Discussion in 'E90 Saloon / E92 Coupe / E93 Convertible M3 (2008-2013)' started by mlhj83, Oct 17, 2018.

  1. 17 Oct 2018 at 8:51 AM #1
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    Thought I post this video detailing the thorough restoration process that Redish performed on the undercarriage after 100k miles.



    To give you an idea of its usage exposure: I've owned it from new, and use it as a semi-track car and for big driving trips. I do also sometimes use it for snow rallies with winter tyres. I have done my best to keep the car clean and do regularly use an undercarriage washer.

    Hope this helps those who are planning to keep their car long term.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2018
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  2. 17 Oct 2018 at 10:35 AM #2
    g10far

    g10far Wearing official robes

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    Nice to see it being used properly, cheers for sharing!
     
  3. 17 Oct 2018 at 4:20 PM #3
    JMC111

    JMC111 A mere Chipper

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    nice work
     
  4. 17 Oct 2018 at 6:17 PM #4
    abeardo83

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    Wow bet that wasnt cheap!!
     
  5. 17 Oct 2018 at 6:42 PM #5
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    Certainly not, but the cost was proportional to the excellent standard of worked carried out. Given the level of surface corrosion, I felt it was prudent to do it sooner rather than later.
     
  6. 18 Oct 2018 at 10:52 AM #6
    DANM3V8

    DANM3V8 On the path

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    EXCELLENT WORK :beer:

    Nice to see someone who's kept the car from new and used it to its potential.

    i have a question have you done your rod bearings or due to only being your ownership leaving them be ?
     
  7. 18 Oct 2018 at 12:49 PM #7
    kevM3

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    I just done mine , not very well protected these cars underneath
     
  8. 18 Oct 2018 at 1:20 PM #8
    Pdelamare

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    Ballpark cost for the strip and protecting work please? I already have a new rear subframe and control arms to go in.
     
  9. 18 Oct 2018 at 1:23 PM #9
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    I've had oil analysed and all is good. It's done around 3000 track miles and drifted on every trip right up to the redline. But I've taken care to ensure appropriate oil changes and obviously ensured appropriate warm up.





    Indeed, but the quality of the sheet metal and galvanisation exceeds that of previous generation cars, thus it's still confined to surface corrosion rather that full thickness rotting. Nice DIY work there!
     
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  10. 18 Oct 2018 at 1:45 PM #10
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    4K upwards, depending on how far you'd like to go.

    Also, incidentally, I saw your thread about group buy for the Liteblox 19xx. While that battery is sufficient to run the car, I wouldn't recommend it for winter use, particularly if one's car is equipped with stop/start. Even when fully charged, the 19xx can struggle to keep voltage up during engine start, whereby voltage can drop sufficiently to cause the electrics to cut out and throw a fault code with a CEL (related to low voltage)--engine still starts however. But once low voltage is registered in the DME, the alternator will stay permanently on to keep the battery charged as a precautionary measure, thus have parasitic loss during acceleration (where normally, the alternator disengages as part of the efficient dynamics system). You would then have to re-register the battery to reset the efficient dynamics system.
    I had the LB19xx for half a year and now have the 26xx.

    Liteblox themselves have recommended to me the 26xx for all season use and refunded the 19xx, even though they state 19xx is sufficient for our cars on their website.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2018
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  11. 18 Oct 2018 at 2:20 PM #11
    Pdelamare

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    Thanks for the info. The battery is for a track day toy, definitely no stop/start. I'll make sure that any participants in the GB will be made aware of each model's limitations. I'm sure the 26xx will be included.
     
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  12. 18 Oct 2018 at 7:47 PM #12
    bighead

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    Op... Did not do the front end of the car ?
     
  13. 18 Oct 2018 at 8:03 PM #13
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    Front end is still very good. Only very minor surface corrosion. I’m waiting to do it together with engine and transmission work.
     
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  14. 18 Oct 2018 at 8:39 PM #14
    bighead

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    You planning to keep the car indefinately then ?....as the whole underside restoration will come close to £10k .


    I love my E90 ....but swop it for the newer model because of it age (december 09 model)... Like u had it since new ,only done 30k miles before i past it on to a family member ....wish I kept it but too many toys so need must .
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2018
  15. 18 Oct 2018 at 10:34 PM #15
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    I’m keeping it for the foreseeable future. Changing cars will also cost money. I’m happy with my E92 given the amount of work I’ve put into it. It has components made to my own specification. My own geometry and damper settings too.

    Not my daily car either, so I can keep it in tip top condition, making it all the more special when I use it for track days or big trips.
     
  16. 18 Oct 2018 at 11:34 PM #16
    bighead

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    [QUOTE="mlhj83, post: 2655901, member: 21730"

    Not my daily car either, so I can keep it in tip top condition, making it all the more special when I use it for track days or big trips.[/QUOTE]


    Though the GT3 RS would make better car for the track :D:
     
  17. 18 Oct 2018 at 11:46 PM #17
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    Though the GT3 RS would make better car for the track :D:[/QUOTE]

    4 more weeks before I get to slot the key into the ignition :D
     
  18. 18 Oct 2018 at 11:49 PM #18
    bighead

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    I am very jealous :bow::bow:.....you have more toys than me !
     
  19. 19 Oct 2018 at 8:12 AM #19
    bpman

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    Lovely job, if I keep mine it’s on to do list, mine is a bit of a garage queen and does not see wet roads

    I’ve already applied dinitrol on the rear before any surface rust breaks out, having come from the Land Rover fraternity I know a lot about rust prevention
     
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  20. 19 Oct 2018 at 12:30 PM #20
    mlhj83

    mlhj83 A mere Chipper

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    Haven’t recently researched Waxyol or Dinitrol. Had a clear non-drying wax from Waxyol applied on a previous car years ago by a Land Rover rust coating specialist in St Albans, but it attracted so much dirt, and made mechanical work difficult due to everything being gooey.

    How have things moved on since then? Is there a thin but strong clear coating that can be applied that dries?
     

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