thinking of buying an M3 - advice needed

Discussion in 'Welcome & New Owners Section' started by Burnz0, Oct 30, 2018.

  1. 30 Oct 2018 at 7:34 PM #1
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    Hi All. I've just about made up my mind that I'm going to buy an E9X M3 - probably a coupe based on what is available but would like a saloon.
    I was previously looking at 335is but it seems like i can get an M3 for not that much more and i've always wanted one, think they look a lot better etc. and am sure i'd always feel like im missing out if i go for the 335i.
    So the questions are really what should i be looking for.
    I'm probably looking at spending £17k which should get me a 2008 or newer, with anything from 50k to 80/90k with quite a few available.
    Obviously ill be going for FSH and preferably fewer owners, lots of receipts etc. but im a bit stuck from there as i know that lower mileage isn't always the best thing.
    I've read up that the main things to go wrong are the throttle actuators which probably should've been done already and then there's the big question on the rod-bearings where im getting mixed messages as to how important they are & whether it's an essential and something ill need to budget to change myself straight away. At £1500 it could be money better spent on getting a better example?

    I don't do much driving - probably 3k a year based on the last 8 years driving so i'm not overly fussed about the higher running costs and if i can get one with decent condition tyres, brakes etc. then i might get away with a few years driving for minimal running costs, apart from petrol. I hope so anyway!

    I've made a few calls already and a few dealers have told me that the actuators will be covered by the warranty (they come up with a year) - does that sound right?
    Should i be factoring in the potential rod-bearing cost when negotiating the price?

    I'm definitely in no rush as i can get access to another car for when i need one but equally im looking to strike whilst im keen and before i have second thoughts about how much money it's going to cost me!

    So any advice you can give will be appreciated.
    I think ive decided on the DCT and probably in the silver/light blue(?) or maybe black (which i may live to regret).
    There's so many choices in terms of interior colour, optional extras that it's all a bit overwhelming!

    The final question is, and i appreciate a M forum may not be the best place to ask this, but for anyone that has driven a 335 is the extra cost really worth it? I'm not the best driver so probably won;t fully appreciate the additional performance but i've always wanted an M3 and can sense ill have a much bigger smile on my face, even if im not using it to its fully potential.
    It just seems that an M will probably hold it's value quite well if im not covering that many miles and if im lucky the annual running costs may not be that excessive
     
  2. 30 Oct 2018 at 7:35 PM #2
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    and apologies in advance if im repeating the same thing that gets asked all the time, particularly on the rod-bearing bit!
     
  3. 31 Oct 2018 at 6:49 PM #3
    m3smudge

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    Hi and welcome, great opening thread. I’ve just recently moved into an e92 m3. The 335 is a great car however the running costs are very similar to the M3 but the M gives you so much more bang for the extra buck.
    The bearing issue is mostly on earlier models and if your not in a mad rush to buy one, you can make sure that they have been replaced.
    Also with you being able to take your time, you will be able to get exactly the spec and colour that you really want, the market has loads for sale, mind, half are proper sh1tter5.
    Good luck with the hunt, it’s the part I really enjoy.
     
  4. 31 Oct 2018 at 8:28 PM #4
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    any thoughts on how much i should be looking to spend? £17k seems like itll give me a fair few choices but they might just be the bad ones. And is it worth holding back some cash or going for a cheaper one and getting the rod-bearings if they haven't been done?

    What's the general thinking on warranties on here?
     
  5. 31 Oct 2018 at 10:29 PM #5
    Nunga

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    A lot of guys seem to run with 3rd-party warranties but you’re probably best off setting up a contingency fund and putting in £100-£150/month for the first 18 months, and use that for any scary bills like actuators, rod bearings or whatever. They’re getting old now so shït is bound to break but if you get a well looked after car, you’ll probably be fine, and you’d be desperately unlucky to have something go wrong in the first year (which should be covered by a dealer warranty if you go down that path). If you buy a car that’s had oil done every 6-12 months I’d not be too concerned about bearings; old oil and hard driving when cold kills these engines more than most other things.

    E9X M3s seem like great value now, especially if you look at how much people are asking for when selling E46s. Surely the E9X is the smart money.
     
  6. 1 Nov 2018 at 8:59 PM #6
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    I think that's the route i'll probably go down as i'd hate to be paying for a warranty indefinitely and it'll be hard to make a call of how far down the line to cancel it. Maybe just the first year or two if i can get a good deal (£500 a year-ish).

    Annoyingly, of the cars i've phoned up about so far, most of the dealers aren't being too forthcoming with information on any work done outside of the service history which is frustrating as i'd reasonably expect any car with 60-80k to have had some repairs. The throttle actuators are obviously a concern and some of them don't seem to have a clue so i'll probably just write those places off straight away if that seems sensible?

    I've found one quite local to me: 2009 with 82000 miles, FSH, silver/blue (Silverstone?) for £16,995.
    They've only got one photo up so far as apparently they've just got it in and they're getting the wheels refurbished before taking the rest of the pics.
    When i spoke to them today they said it's just had the actuators done (i think they said they've had it done actually which is a bit confusing if they've only just got it) and it's had new discs and pads recently so seems like quite a good one.

    Hopefully something like that should mean i dont have to pay anything out straight away unless something breaks which i can;t really account for.

    And yes, the depreciation thing is definitely a consideration for me.
    It's not that im bothered by it as i think you're silly to buy a car to try and not lose too much money - it should just be something that does or doesn't happen - but compared to the prices for the 335is they seem very affordable and there should be some kind of floor providing the car's not a sh1tter!!

    Still trying to decide if it's a bad move going in at the low end of the price range though and whether that's something i may come to regret. Equally, the higher priced ones aren;t necessarily going to be any better.
     
  7. 7 Nov 2018 at 9:58 PM #7
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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  8. 8 Nov 2018 at 12:11 PM #8
    Smuler

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    No reg on the first one, to do any checks. It does have older iDrive if that's an issue. Also no EDC. Mileage would make a BMW warranty if you were to go for it, expensive.

    Second one, newer iDrive, EDC, Perfect MOT history, which is rare. Some late MOTs, so to be sure of providence, check and see if miles and service history tie in ;) It's same price, though doesn't look too clean in interior pics.
     
  9. 11 Nov 2018 at 9:32 AM #9
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    So I did it on Friday and put a deposit down on one & im hoping to pick it up tomorrow or next weekend as they're putting an MOT on it first and checking a few bits in the workshop as well as giving it the RAC inspection(?).
    It's got full BMW service history but there wasn't much in the way of receipts which is a slightly worry but it looks spotless, with literally no marks anywhere.
    I looked at a couple last weekend - both 08s too - and this seemed noticeably better condition and even the engine sounded smoother (not that i can really tell anyway) so ive sort of just gone with my instinct.

    A of other bad points that ive asked him to look at -
    it had three Michelin tyres and then one odd one (can't remember the brand but im guessing it sounded cheap).
    it had a PO500 error code
    the flap/lid in the rear armrest seems to be missing
    i couldn't seem to get the oil dipstick check to work - it just shows the min and max markers but no level
    EDC - should there be a light on the dashboard when it's on or just the button?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. 11 Nov 2018 at 10:31 AM #10
    Smuler

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    I'd say not having receipts is fairly usual as many previous owners don't pass them on. Just be satisfied it has full service history and the mileage stacks up with iDrive and MOT history.
    All 4 tires should be the same, so get them to change the odd one.
    From ones I've driven, never seen EDC lit up but anywhere than button.
    Code I believe is for speed sensor, so get that sorted.
    But if it's not measuring oil, how can you ever know if it was low. I'd definitely want that sorted other than risk engine!
     
  11. 11 Nov 2018 at 11:10 AM #11
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    thanks & im definitely insisting on those things getting done before i take it away.
    I'm told that we actually cleared the speed sensor code before going for the test drive and it didn't return so was probably an old one.
    From watching a few videos on the oil level gauge it seems like i just needed to leave it a bit longer but will definitely check that it does work
     
  12. 11 Nov 2018 at 11:26 AM #12
    Smuler

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    With the oil, where a measure can't be taken, i.e. not ready , not been run, or whatever, doesn't it says it's not ready to measure or words to that effect?
    Proof of the 'pudding' is, as you say, make sure you get a measure.
    Can some fault codes appear, then go, as it's an intermittent fault. Might be worth checking speed sensor recently replaced / fixed?
     
  13. 11 Nov 2018 at 11:35 AM #13
    Smuler

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    If it's the car I assume it is (didn't want to post up without consent as you hadn't identified it) did you notice it has a missing MOT year 2017 and it says outstanding recall.
     
  14. 11 Nov 2018 at 11:45 AM #14
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    No i didn't notice that actually which is annoying as i did actually check. Not too sure what that could be but will definitely ask?
    Every car of that age i've looked at seems to have a recall and from checking on the BMW website (someone on here mentioned it) it seems to be:
    • B+ Battery connector;
    • Blower regulator connection
    I've only put a deposit down so far so will definitely make sure to get all these things resolved before i buy it.
    I did spend quite a lot of time looking at it and as i said earlier it does look spotless but i keep thinking of things i didn't remember to check. The oil level thing in particular is a big one and will be the first thing i check when i go back.
     
  15. 11 Nov 2018 at 12:15 PM #15
    Smuler

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    I put two more 08 vert M3's into the MOT website and they also required recalls, weirdly the date was yesterday!! So it could be something pending, or it's an error. Certainly nothing specific on yours.
    Delving a little into it's history , previous keeper (I presume who traded it into the dealer selling it) only had it on 20 July 2018, so short ownership!


    My check says previous keeper (to current) sold it on 31-10-2016. If that's correct, where has it been in the interval? on sale, used by a trader who didn't have to become a keeper but who didn't MOT it in 2017?
    Although someone, MOT'd it in Feb 2018 and taxed it and has not sought, as of yet, a refund for the tax. Unless it's only just been traded?

    I do tend to go into things, sometimes to the "nth" degree, but if it were me, I'd be looking for services in this missing period see if that can show where it was.
     
  16. 11 Nov 2018 at 12:31 PM #16
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    Thanks. It does seem like i need to do some more digging and should've done it before paying a deposit!
     
  17. 12 Nov 2018 at 6:53 AM #17
    M3POWERBOY

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    Missing an MOT shouldn't be a deal breaker

    There are multiple reasons why it could be missed

    I had a mot missed due to my mate who owned the car before me working for McLaren so was away lots and the car was in dry storage
     
  18. 12 Nov 2018 at 6:42 PM #18
    ScottBacon

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    You should also post up in the E92 section mate :thumbsup:
     
  19. 12 Nov 2018 at 9:19 PM #19
    Burnz0

    Burnz0 A mere Chipper

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    Will do, thanks.
    I picked it up today - hopefully i won;t regret it and there's a good reason for the slightly odd history - but would still like to i find out a bit more about it.
    I did google the reg number and found this website but can;t open it: //production-api-1511452688.eu-west-1.elb.amazonaws.com/uk/car/. Anyone know what it is or an alternative source?

    I phoned BMW and they could only confirm the service intervals and where they'd been done and then when i phoned the individual garages it was pretty much the same thing. The main one (the last 4/5) stamps said they need to see the V5 document and then they'll confirm exactly what was fixed etc.
     

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