Discussion in 'Member Rides' started by Mini 360, Sep 10, 2017.
Didn't get any work done on this yesterday as I was at Alford Autojumble with my dad selling our combination of old car shite, model cars and car books. I got burnt to a crisp and made about £30. Worth it!
Back at it after work this evening though. A little reminder of the before condition of the passener side spring cup.
and as it looks after this evenings efforts
I then tied the left to the right and thats the subframe area back all done. Now its 'just' the bulkhead area that holds the fuel tank which has the rear trailing arm pockets which as you'd expect are also pretty crusty!
Removed the tank and brake line brackets which revealed metal in better condition than the drivers side but still glad I rectified them.
Brackets themselves are also in better condition than the drivers side. However as you can see one of the factory captive nuts/rivnuts has fallen out. I will use a LARGE rivnut in its place and may do the same with the other one for uniformity and it will be one less thing to worry about.
More tomorrow provided the weather stays dry.
I think Redish do it as standard now but it never used to be. Most 'specialists' dont though and still charge you multiple thousands. For all the time it takes to drill out some spot welds, its got to be done!
Not huge progress due to life and darker nights getting in the way. However I did get the floor prep and primer finished off.
Added the seam sealer as well. Brushed on as per OEM. Sorry for the poo light but that’s due to to working on a drive in the dark by torch light
Powder coated the brackets as well as the fuel tank hole clamps
I’ve got someone coming round to weld the small holes I found on Friday and once done it’s time to throw the Upol raptor on and start rebuilding the thing! Due to the size of the subframe and cross brace I shipped these out to customised coatings instead. Collect them on Monday since it’s a local holiday.
And I then cleaned up the rear trailing arm.
love how they have M and BMW logos all over them. Now is is cleaned up it will get powder coated next chance I get. Hopefully this evening. It takes a LONG time to heat up to out gas due to it being a tick cast piece.
I also bought some custom braided lines in orange to match the springs, ARB and cinnamon interior. It’s the little things that make the difference. Thankfully these have swivel female ends as I’ve had some in the past that had fixed ends which means you end up having to twist them in order to tighten them which is never pleasant.
Overdue an update but also not much to report. Been incredibly busy with work last couple of weeks and combined with crap weather and ever shortening light in evenings, this has slowed down sadly.
However, I'm still chipping away at things. Picked up my subframe and cross brace from Customised Coatings. They had them for over three weeks and I had to chase to finish them. Believe they have just changed hands though so hopefully their customer service improves a bit.
Brace is brand new so looks great all coated up. Wanted to remove the weird rubbery coating it comes iwth as it splits and lets water sit underneath with no room to escape. Hence my old one being completely hollow!
Popped the Powerflex bushes in. They have a wider contact patch than the OEM bushes so support the loads better. Plus they will help sharpen things up no end.
With everything new/refurbished under the car, I wasn't happy with the outcome of the fastener cleaing I did. So I contacted Bon Accord Engineering to get them zin plated. They took them covered in grease, oil, paint and corrosion. Blasted them clean then plated in silver zinc. 2 day turnaround and a great finish on old bolts. Super friendly company considering they cater to industry more than car DIYers. Highly recommend them for any plating needs!
and after! Massive difference. Should keep the corrosion at bay even if the car will only be getting summer/good weather use from now on.
And because I'm a sad bastard.....I did this.....and yes, it was incredibly satisfying.
Somewhat less satisfying things then reared their ugly head.... I had already identified a few holes on the floor and boot box area so I called in the services of MigTek, a local welding firm to repair these for me. Good service start to finish but he did mention i should check my sills as he has done a few E46s now that required some fairly hefty repairs.
Im both glad and annoyed I took his advice. I removed the passenger side side skirt and found this. ROOST! Both front and rear jacking points plus another couple of spots along the sill.
Given the cost to repair the small holes in the floor, I simply cannot afford to pay for the sills to be done. So ever the DIYer, I've gone and bought myself a beast of a MIG welder from a garge closing down and selling off their equipment on Facebook marketplace. I will now be teaching myself how to weld in order to repair the mess! I do like a challenge Just need to work out where to get steel sheet locally and some welding gas.
Hopefully get some work done over the weekend if the weather stays nice.
With the diff not requiring a rebuild (ok, it will get rebuilt at some point in the future with a lovely BMW Motorsport 4.1 ratio crown wheel) I needed to tidy it up. Given it has bearings etc in it I couldn't powdercoat it so I had to turn to the best anti corrosive paint I could think of. Por15. Satin black to match the rest of the bits and pieces I've got in powder.
Before shows the rather brown casing since the ffactory e-coat had long since gone, especially having had a leaky input seal for a couple of years.
Gave it a clean up and wire brush on the drill. Came up not too bad and more than good enough for the paint as it can apply over minor surface rust and old paint. Ideal for a diff I couldn't blast! Also removed the rear cover ad the mounting bushes are integral to this and cannot be supplied separately. Makes it a bit pricey to do but hey ho, its a drop in the ocean now
Old vs new diff cover. You can see the state of the bushes. No wonder the diff clunked when you came off the throttle.
Couple of coats later and voila. One nice looking diff again.
The paint is pretty potent. Popped the brush ina rattle can lid full of acetone and two hours later it looked like this. Mad!
Genuine BMW gasket fitted
And complete. Relatively quick turnaround which was nice for a change.
Painted the bolt heads as well since they didnt get zinc coated. Torqued to spec and didn't scratch them. Tough paint!
Hopefully it will be dry at the weekend and I can start to repair the sill and then paint the floor ready to start putting it all back together again.
This weekend I planned to get a lot done on this and between downpours, I think I've done pretty well.
Started off by taking my driveshafts apart. They had seen better days, were rusty and peeling all over and the CV joints could do with a rebuild and fresh grease after 90k miles.
Easy to disassemble and I put everything in the parts washer for a full degrease and inspection.
Thankfully there were no signs of major wear and they will be fine to go back together.
The inner CV joints separate fully from the driveshaft and I buzzed them back to bare metal with lots of wire brush attachments.
However frustratingly the outer CV joints are welded onto the cover plate from the factory meaning you cannot remove the driveshaft from the CV joint. As you can no longer buy new CV joints (other than buying brand new full drive shafts from BMW for c.£500+VAT each!!!!) I decided to fill the joint with degreaser, let it do its work then move the joint about to move the gunk around, drain and repeat a few times. This left me with totally degreased CV joints ready for new grease. Bit of a work around but reading up online, it appears I've done what some others have done anyway.
One of the driveshafts was a pain in the arse to remove from the drive flange. Totally seized after years of salty driving conditions and heat cycles. It was so seized that I ended up leaving the flange pointing vertically and filling the hollow around the driveshaft with brake fluid. Having done some research, brake fluid works well as a penetrating fluid as it doesn't flash off quickly and seeps gradually through seized components. I ended up leaving it for two weeks and found the brake fluid had seeped all the way through and down the driveshaft. Result! Quick few hits form the hammer and it was free!
However the driveshaft end thread had been damaged in my frustrated previous attempts to remove it, so it was out with the tiny files to sort it. Looks ok but will see how good a job I've done when I go to fit the wheel bearings I guess.
I did start working on the trailing arms but then it rained so these will get powder coated another day. I do now have the ball joints to go into them though thanks to a decent discount code for EuroCarParts. Lemforder rather than OEM BMW but they make the BMW ones anyway so same stuff really!
And the most satisfying bit of the weekend happened this evening. With a forecast break in the weather and reasonable temperatures I got stuck into the Upol Raptor on the floor. You'll likely remember the before condition...failed factory seam sealer, lots of surface corrosion, flaking paint. Just a general horror show.
Out with the shutz gun and air line. Messy stuff and an absolute pig to remove from skin so full PPE required Even with all this I still got covered though.....
After a **** load of time and effort it now looks like this!
Second coat, ot got dark so did it with a portable lamp. This plus the fact that its still wet shows it glossy finish but it dries satin in the end.
Prepping this area was tough due to the small space. Its where the filler neck goes hence the brackets and weird shapes. Bulletproof now!
Drivers side arch.
Spring perch area. Gave these areas an extra thick coat given they will have dynamic load going through them continually.
And voila! The full floor done.
I used up the full kit of Upol Raptor which was maybe a bit overkill as its 4L of paint but I REALLY don't want to be doing this again in future so made sure I was thorough. Its incredibly durable as well as flexible so it shouldn't crack in changing temperatures. The car will never see salty roads ever again so it will also mean it shouldn't rust again as well.
As you can probably tell by the overload of pics, I am beyond happy with the outcome of the floor as it has been a load of work to get to this stage and I can now start to reinstall bits as and when I finish them.
Rare pic of myself here but I do look well chuffed after a job well done. Spot where my glove had a hole....
Very nice work mate
This is the Route id like- underside stripped of everything- cleaned and treated then a black protector like this
then build everything on top (powdercoated etc) my suspension/brakes/arches had a full restoration last year and inner arches treated a painted gloss Silver grey and look superb but don’t want a painted underside- I want protection- and powdercoated goodies
Great effort, well done on the thorough work.
Proper job that.
Great thread and great job!
It does make me wonder how many E46 M3s are out there with worse rust issues that have never come to light...
Thanks! If you do go down this route I can't recommend Raptor enough. Super tough and a breeze to apply!
Thanks! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now!
Thanks! If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing beyond what's deemed as acceptable :lol:
So many rusty M3s out there now!
Got some more done yesterday. Started off by prepping my rear trailing arms for powder coat. YOu'll maybe recall the state they were in with their brittle and mainly snapped plastic clips.
After a second going over with wire brushes on a grinder (I left these too long between stripping of paint and rust and coating so they rusted up again....) I put some M6 rivnuts into the arm where the clips went from factory. I will then bolt P-Clips to these to hold the ABS and brake pad wear sensor cables.
With them finally prepped and ready, they got a coat of satin black like the rest of the suspension. They are now ready for the new wheel bearings and ball joints to go in. You'll see I've already installed the Powerflex polybushes too.
I love the fact they have the M logo in the casting too. Subtle.
I've then started to prep for installing the fuel tank. Got the collars back onto the tank.
Now that the Raptor paint has been cured for a while its ok to start installing things on it. So I started with the brake line support and fuel tank strap brackets. Stainless fasteners throughout. Looks a bit overkill on the tank brackets but I just put a bolt where every spot weld was from factory. SO its now stronger than OEM and shiny too.
Also got the fuel breather system in. Sealed up with sealant where it mounts to the floor to mimic the weird gum type seal from factory.
ABS sensor connector box in. Stainless rivnuts and socket head bolts to mount this as well as the plastic tabs broke off on removal. Crap design anyway...
Back on it today and need to work out how to mount a few more bits and pieces.
Since I chopped out the badly formed and rusty union'd brake lines, I got stuck into remaking them from scratch yesterday.
Routed in the OEM locations but rather than use the studs in the healboard that had corroded and pretty poor thread forms, I put in some rivnuts and bolted them on with rubber lined stainless P-Clips. Black tubing is the fuel system breather line. Regret not chopping off the OEM studs now but will just paint them with Por15 to stop them corroding further.
Doubled up P-Clips in some areas to prevent multiple rivnuts.
Still need to tidy up a few of the bend angles but overall happy with this. Took a fair while as I hate making brake lines and flaring with a cheap tool ends upw ith multiple attempts at flares. PLan for today is to get the tank straps powder coated and I can then get the tank installed