Medium case diff vs Large case diff

Discussion in 'E36 M3 (1991-1999) and E30 M3 (1986-1990)' started by dibbles00, Dec 6, 2018.

  1. 6 Dec 2018 at 5:15 PM #1
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    Hi all,
    Currently looking for some advice on what diff is best for an e36...

    Car currently has a 3.46 medium case lsd with M3 output cups and M3 driveshafts and I have been given the option to swap it out for a 3.23 large case lsd. Both diffs lock up well.

    What would those who know a thing or two about diffs suggest?

    Thanks
     
  2. 6 Dec 2018 at 5:56 PM #2
    Iain

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    Large case is heavier, parts cost more and it can break the front and rear hanger

    Medium has cheaper parts can break the front bolt.

    Unless your making well over 400hp you wont need a large case.
     
  3. 6 Dec 2018 at 6:10 PM #3
    Matthead

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    Have to agree with Iain here. I have a large case 210mm diff in my track car. Now I only have this as when I upgraded the rear end on my car I was in a bit of a hurry and the evo rear end was the first one I found. If I were to do it again I would go medium case, there are more of them about, you are more likely to get a nicely built upgraded one as well if you look around. Should you destroy your diff another one is easier to source second hand than the 210, especially now the e46 boys are buying up all the 210’s for their cars! Mine broke the front mount on the cradle. Not a biggie, just a weld up job and a home made strengthening plate fixed it, but a pain all the same.
    Also, bear in mind if you go the large case route you’ll need the whole lot, the evo cradle etc, I’m not sure if the driveshafts and propshaft are interchangeable? Probably are but worth checking.
     
  4. 6 Dec 2018 at 8:29 PM #4
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    Hi both,
    Fair points. My medium case has been rebuilt previously at some point, but I guess it's had a hard life at some point..? It locks 100% and is super-super tight! However, my friend who came to Silverstone with me on Sunday told me the vibration at the rear of my car was most likely from my diff (feels like going over rumble strips on deceleration [only sometimes], which is annoying). He has a large case diff which works 100% and has offered to swap mine for his spare kit, which is the whole Evo rear end for zero cost. I'm trying to decide what to do hence asking :s
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018
  5. 7 Dec 2018 at 4:06 PM #5
    Iain

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    i doubt the vibration is the diff unless the bushes are hanging out of it
     
  6. 7 Dec 2018 at 4:29 PM #6
    harrypevo

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    Knackered cvs/ driveshafts can cause pretty nasty vibrations which usually shows up on decelleration. Worth a look before condemning the whole rear end.
     
  7. 7 Dec 2018 at 5:51 PM #7
    drewbie

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    Also In this position weighing up options. Have a 3.0 e36 m3 which is now s54 powered. Front diff bolt snapped on track recently. I plan on doing some fancy diff build soon. Is it worth changing to large case, or stick with medium? Obviously I already have m3 drive shafts prop etc
     
  8. 7 Dec 2018 at 5:53 PM #8
    Iain

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    No, or at least not in my opinion.

    My engine makes at lest the same power as an s54, i too knackered the front bolt, i just drilled and tapped it to 14x1.5 and no issues since.
     
  9. 7 Dec 2018 at 7:34 PM #9
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    Hi, it has been pollybushed so deffo not bushes .

    Hi, what is the best method to check these? I'm thinking of zip tiring my GoPro somewhere under the rear of the car. Weird thing is it feels like it's only coming from near side rear wheel area and not centre or offside rear.
     
  10. 7 Dec 2018 at 7:49 PM #10
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    Here is my car btw if the image works. However it now has half rear cage:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. 7 Dec 2018 at 8:55 PM #11
    Matthead

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    Yeah, I don’t think you have much if anything to gain from going to a 210. I was lucky enough to get hold of a drexler 210 diff and it phenomenal but I would suggest you just have yours rebuilt, loads of company’s out there who can do it for you. No major gain to be had from a 210. If you are really worried about strength look at Tris’s build, he has just installed a fancy diff set up which is supposed to be bulletproof, still only a medium case though.
     
  12. 7 Dec 2018 at 9:16 PM #12
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    My medium case too has been drilled and high tensile nut and bolt have been used with a large front washer to clamp it the frame.
     
  13. 7 Dec 2018 at 9:33 PM #13
    Old Greg

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    As someone that very nearly broke his rib cage today refitting a 210 - go for the 188!
    No technical justification to add....
     
  14. 8 Dec 2018 at 10:04 AM #14
    Matthead

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    Haha, yeah, they are a heavy old thing ain’t they?
     
  15. 8 Dec 2018 at 12:45 PM #15
    Dixy1987

    Dixy1987 On the path

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    Tris actually changed to a 210 large case as part of 'bulletproofing' the rear end
     
  16. 8 Dec 2018 at 6:48 PM #16
    drewbie

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    Is there a link to tris’ diff build? Or is it in his build journal?
     
  17. 8 Dec 2018 at 7:04 PM #17
    Dixy1987

    Dixy1987 On the path

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  18. 8 Dec 2018 at 8:58 PM #18
    drewbie

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    Dixy 1987. Thanks I’ll take a look
     
  19. 9 Dec 2018 at 8:05 PM #19
    evoGrant

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    Yep already said medium case all the way if you have the option. Although prices seem to be going up.
     
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  20. 10 Dec 2018 at 8:04 AM #20
    dibbles00

    dibbles00 A mere Chipper

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    Thanks, makes sense. I'll keep the medium diff and see what else could be causing the rumble. The car already has a new Guibo and CSB and these have not made a difference. Thing is it only happens now and again. The HSD springs do not have any rubber pads on them (top or bottom), so I will fit these next just in case it is a weird spring vibration.
     

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