Kangarooing seems to be fixed (Long Story)

Discussion in 'E46 M3 (2001-2006)' started by Andy6527, Sep 13, 2019.

  1. 13 Sep 2019 at 12:48 PM #1
    Andy6527

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    Ok, so not sure exactly how this happened, but heres the background...

    Since I have had my M3, since 2016, I have had really bad kangarooing. It was so bad it couldn't even be driven until it had warmed up a bit. Just ended up learning to live with it, started it up a few minutes earlier and let it warm up for 5 mins or so.

    Anyway, that aside I had some other seemingly unrelated issues.

    I was getting an issue where it would not let me change gear when cold until revs got up to 3k, which wasn't great for a cold engine. It was like it thought it was going up hill while cold (that's a clue to what actually was the problem)

    The cog light would come up intermittently, especially when the temperatures started getting hotter inside the car, and then even more often. Red the codes which said " Brake signal by CAN, Break pedal not pressed" which really threw me

    Someone on this forum correctly suggested that the problem was the longitudinal acceleration sensor, located under the drivers seat. (now the changing gears and uphill thing started to make sense)

    So, got a new sensor and set about replacing it. Then I found out why it was having problems. There was a leak and the carpet under the drivers seat was soaked. The acceleration sensor was wet and rusty!!

    Put in new sensor, ran the gearbox adaptations (apparently in DIS you can select just to calibrate the acceleration sensor, but in INPA, you have to run the whole adaptation process, scary !!!). Then fixed the leak of course.

    So the gear changing below 3k rev issue was immediately resolved, made sense right.

    Was still letting it warm up before driving off, because of the kangarooing. Then the other day, I was in a hurry and just set off without waiting for it to warm up.... no kangaroo.

    Been doing this for a few days now, no kangarooing. Strange!! could this have been to do with the longitudinal acceleration sensor too??? Did the adaptations do something to fix it???

    Well, I hope I haven't done too much damage to the engine in the three years I have been leaving it idling to warm up. I know some say that this is not good for the engine, something to do with oil pump pressure not being high enough to get the oil circulating properly. I only use it once or twice a week, if that, and its only the first start of the day that I have left it to warm up, so hopefully not too much damage done.
     
  2. 13 Sep 2019 at 1:06 PM #2
    klan8456

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    Good work. What was the source of the water leak?
     
  3. 13 Sep 2019 at 2:08 PM #3
    Andy6527

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    Before I bought the car, the driver's side wing had been replaced, they failed to re-install the rainwater gulley that directs the windscreen water away, so it was going into the brake servo compartment, along with all sorts of leave and gunge. The water would sit in there and seep through the firewall where the wiring harness goes in, and also started corroding the seam.

    Replaced the galleys, cleaned out and seam sealed the compartments, and gave it a coating of Waxoyl to be on the age side. Now dry as a bone in there.
     
  4. 13 Sep 2019 at 2:50 PM #4
    SINGH72

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    Noooo...u been leavin it parked up started whilst “Warming” the engine up in the morning.
    Bad news.
     
  5. 13 Sep 2019 at 4:09 PM #5
    Andy6527

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    Care to expand on that :) why is it bad, what damage have I done?
     
  6. 13 Sep 2019 at 4:27 PM #6
    SINGH72

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    Im not saying any damage has been dun but bmw does not advise this.
    They say pull of strate away... im guessing to get oil etc circulating around the engine immediately.
    Check ur handbook if you have one mate.
     
  7. 13 Sep 2019 at 5:02 PM #7
    klan8456

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    That guidance is mostly about getting the cats warm as soon as possible - hence the warm-up enrichment and secondary air pump to also assist with that task. You are better off driving the car to warm it up (I drive as though there is an egg shell under the pedal) than letting it idle though.
     
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  8. 13 Sep 2019 at 5:43 PM #8
    EmptyTrash

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    It will wear out your camshafts. Mine were badly damaged and had to replace them because of idling standing still
     
  9. 13 Sep 2019 at 5:56 PM #9
    Andy6527

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    Yeah, been reading up on it a bit more. Seems the issue is that when cold, an extra rich fuel mixture is used, so any petrol that doesn't get burnt ends up stripping oil from the piston rings and liners, then can get into the oil which will dilute it with petrol. Doesn't sound good :(

    Hopefully, not the kangarooing seems to have been resolved, I won't be doing that any more. At least i wasn't using it every day and leaving it idling, probably would have don a lot of damage by now.
     
  10. 13 Sep 2019 at 7:02 PM #10
    EmptyTrash

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    Get a torch open your oil cap and check out your cam lobes if they scorn. Its a problem on m3 that people don’t even know about. Its the famous ticking noise ;)
     
  11. 13 Sep 2019 at 7:35 PM #11
    Jimmye46

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    A couple of minutes won't of done it any harm at all, it's always up for debate and the usual answer is it basically makes no difference in reality.

    I used to allow previous cars to warm up, never noticed myself doing it but I don't ever bother in the M3. I do however keep the revs below 3k and drive very gently until the engines warm. Engine oil pressure may be lower at idle, but at cold idle with thick oil it will be high anyway, at hot idle with thinner oil it will be lower but still plenty high enough to provide lubrication
     
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  12. 13 Sep 2019 at 7:40 PM #12
    EmptyTrash

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    In General letting it idle is not good for that motor.. when I had my cams replaced I asked him if it happens because it’s thick oil or reving it high when engine is cold and his response was it’s mainly from long idle at standstill and lots of stop and go.
     
  13. 14 Sep 2019 at 5:39 AM #13
    zulfario94

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    I don't think a few minutes left at idle will do any long term damage. These cars are getting on now who really knows how they've been driven before you bought it unless you had it from new. The damage could have been already been done. As above keep revs low and allow oil pressure to build properly. If you leaving the car to idle for 10-15 minutes then maybe that's different but a few minutes I can't really see the harm
     
  14. 14 Sep 2019 at 8:19 AM #14
    monkeyboy

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    Leaving any car to idle wether it be an M3 or a Fiat 500 is a no no, get it start it and drive it end off (keeping revs below manufactured recommended levels still warm)
    The ticking noise is to do with the cam followers wear which’s why you should get the valve clearances checked regularly makes an amazing difference when they are done to engine sound/ticking noise & responsiveness.
    Glad you got your car sorted :D
     
  15. 14 Sep 2019 at 10:30 AM #15
    JamboM3

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    Getting in and going, not giving the car a few moments to circulate the oil, is a far worse idea than idling for a 1-2mins on start upIMO
     
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  16. 14 Sep 2019 at 1:05 PM #16
    robsoup

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    I always idle my car for a few mins before setting off. Then keep revs below 4k, and throttle below 30% until oil reaches 80c (when all my warmup lights are coded to go out).
     
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  17. 16 Sep 2019 at 11:53 AM #17
    WIL35

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    Same here, let it idle until the SAP thing has finished whirring, then take it easy. This was even when it was a daily train station car with only a 3 mile journey. Car is now on 203k miles, rod bearings looked ok at 195k miles, so I think letting it idle is good for it.

    I'm usually a bit suspect of manufacturer recommendations, they don't want their products to last too long otherwise they won't be able to sell new ones! It's like lightbulb manufacturers, they could make ones that last forever, but they would rather have repeat business.
     
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  18. 16 Sep 2019 at 9:29 PM #18
    MrRight

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    my 2004 m3 with smg suffers moderate to severe kangarooing if I dont idle it properly. maybe I should get the long acc sensor checked. I have no choice but to idle it for around 30 secs otherwise it is a fight with the pedal and gears trying to get it to behave. I do love a challenge though sometimes it feels like I am a star at the rodeo with the car bucking and jerking back and forth not wanting to settle for a good 10 seconds. after that it is perfectly good for the rest of the journey always.
     
  19. 17 Sep 2019 at 7:09 AM #19
    monkeyboy

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    That’s cool with your warm up lights? Mine go out way before my oil is up to temp
     
  20. 17 Sep 2019 at 9:19 AM #20
    Mike K

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    I've always let my car warm up for a couple of minutes, I always wait until the revs drop a little (thinking of it coming "off choke" )

    If I get in mine and drove straight away it would kangaroo and rattle like mad from the exhaust kinda area.
     
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