[E46] Head Gasket Complete DIY Guide e46 M3

Discussion in 'Engine maintenance, upgrades and modifications' started by Czechboy, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. 3 May 2019 at 11:15 PM #41
    Czechboy

    Czechboy On the path

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    If you have a look at the video on link below, you can see that you just have to push down the camshaft a little to get that first few turns on the first four nuts (looks like he didn’t even have to put the nuts on upside down initially to get them to bite)

    Skip to around 12minute mark:

    https://youtu.be/Xv1mRlr_GF8
     
  2. 7 May 2019 at 6:38 PM #42
    Simas323

    Simas323 A mere Chipper

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    Thanks!

    Didn't break anything, tried to torque them down to 30Nm but it felt like its pulling the studs, so kept them all around 20.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. 7 May 2019 at 9:44 PM #43
    Czechboy

    Czechboy On the path

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    Looking good and caps are looking super clean too. I wouldn’t worry too much about pulling the threads on the cap studs. 30nm isn’t that much and something like an M8 sized stud should
    be able to handle that torque all day long. Ultimately up to you, but with correct torque you are less likely for them to ever work themselves loose.

    Good Luck with rest of the rebuild. Apart from Vanos timing, the rest is plain sailing from now on.
     
  4. 7 May 2019 at 9:55 PM #44
    Czechboy

    Czechboy On the path

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    EDIT: Looking at TIS, it would appear the torque is only meant to be 20NM so no need to achieve 30NM
     
  5. 9 Nov 2019 at 6:30 PM #45
    shortair44

    shortair44 A mere Chipper

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    Hi, great writeup! I have a blown head-gasket between cyl 5 & 6 and I will be using your guide along with the TIS to tackle it myself. I had a few questions though. First, I was going to use ARP head studs because my engine is FI and I was going to use their assembly lube, but it says don't use it if any of the studs go through any water jackets. I am pretty sure the S54 doesn't have any bolts going through water jackets, but I am not 100% sure. Second, when you put the head-gasket back on, did you use the DREI Bond Sealant on the mating surface between the block and the timing cover? The TIS just says to put it on the joints of the timing cover, but I just wanted to make sure that was where to put the sealant. Lastly, do I have to remove any belts if I'm not changing the water pump? Thanks again for the awesome writeup!
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019
  6. 30 Nov 2019 at 10:21 AM #46
    Czechboy

    Czechboy On the path

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    hi, sorry for late reply. I used OEM bolts as never heard of those failing but not aware of them going through any water jackets therefore your ARP bolts should be fine. With regards to sealent on the head gasket itself, do not use anything. It’s designed to be assembled with clean surfaces. The head gasket itself it a double layer gasket with little deformation zones that will ensure a perfect seal. With regards to belts, I’m sure you need to Remove the water pump Anyway as there is a hard coolant Pipe connected to the back of it that runs to the head. Therefore belts will have to come off too but that’s a 5min job

    hope all goes well (or went well already since you posted almost 3 weeks ago )
     

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