Discussion in 'E36 M3 (1991-1999) and E30 M3 (1986-1990)' started by Parsley, Jun 9, 2018.
Replace the main bonnet cable
Mine is bodged with about 5 cable ties where it's corroded and split the cover so it pulls through the bracket instead of opening the latch. Not fun, although it's pretty easy to get into an e36.
Re the prop, yes you could undo the big nut so the prop slides apart, just make sure it's marked before you split it. There's usually a white dot on each half.
Or, I have used a scissor jack under the rear damper bottom to lift one wheel just clear of the ground and then turn that to turn the prop. It'll be pretty tight because of the preload in the diff but it will turn.
Yep that's what I'll do tonight when I get home. Apart from elec plugs and the two fuel pipes it's about ready to come out.
Yep good call I'll order one now!!!
Well that's the engine out and sat in the container.
Steering knuckle an absolute **** to remove from either end. Just seized on plain and simple.
Fuel pipe jubilee clips impossible to get to so just cut the off.
Water pipe behind the head that goes to the bulkhead is easy to miss!!
Earth strap under the o/s front chassis leg by exhaust manifold easy to miss.
There is a canister under the fuse box by the abs pump with a pipe going to a valve beside the engine block. Had to cut that as it would not come off the canister.
All in all not a difficult job however mine had it's fair share of seized bolts making things tedious. If you have any questions regarding removal let me know while it's fresh in my mind.
So far my order list goes
Both engine mountings.
Clutch slave pipe.
Coolant pipe to bulkhead.
Bonnet release cable.
That's all that the removal initially threw up. The list will grow I'm sure.
Would be an ideal time to do any brake pipes that will need attention in the near future. I was considering doing my offside front one but after a quick look and seeing it disappear along the bulkhead behind the engine I decided it will be ok for a while longer!
Your right actually that would be a really good call. As soon as I can face looking at her again ill take stock. When ive done a crappy half day on the car with nothing but problems and filth I hover between wanting to break it for spares or burn it. After a day or so I'm ok again
Are ALL purple tag racks the Same? I've been on eBay looking as while the rack is off I might as well change it for purple tag one. Notice some seem to originally be e46 ones??
purple tag racks will all have come from an e46 to start with.
Don't pay a massive amount for one, they're not particularly rare or a sport only thing. Our completely standard 2001 320i se touring has a purple tag rack!
Ok cheers for that
Will I need to swap anything on the purple tag rack or is it a simple bolt on item? Thanks for any help.
Some people say you need to use vented boots, but I haven't on mine and it's fine.
Other than that, there's a plastic piece over the splines on the e46 rack that needs trimming back to fit the e36 joint, and there's no provision for lock washers so just make sure you do the tierods up nice and tight.
Ok that's great cheers. Is there usually lock washers on the e36 rack then where the tie rod screws into the rack? I've not looked yet but will probably become clear
i also dont have vented boots and have no issue, however I also have lock washers, didn't have any issue fitting those to my purple tag. Had to trim the black shroud as per the above.
You must have cut a slot in the end of the rack for them as the two I have fitted had no provision for them.
The e46 doesn't use them so I didn't bother and have had no issues over many years and probably 50,000 miles of use.
No i didn't cut a slot in the rack, the 3.0 rack didn't have any particular slot for them either.
To be honest i didn't fit them for retaining purposes in particular, i fitted them as they incorporate a lockstop and i didn't want the massive wheels hitting the inner arches.
On my evo the lock stop washers were a separate part to the locking washer which had a tab to locate it in the end of the rack and then folded over the tierod to stop it rotating.
I also didn't bother putting the lock stop washers in as I have to run spacers to clear the suspension so the wheel doesn't come close to the inner arch any more and the extra lock is handy for parking
Couple of questions guys, what's the canister behind the and pump? Also the pipes that run from the master cylinder to the abs pump, corrosion has set in. Can you buy new ones or better to use braided and go non oe?