Eml light on and no power?

Discussion in 'E46 M3 (2001-2006)' started by coxym125, Oct 7, 2018.

  1. 7 Oct 2018 at 1:37 PM #1
    coxym125

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    The first problem I’ve ever had with any m3!

    Hadn’t driven the car for 2 weeks, jumped in to start it and fired up but didn’t feel quite normal, never drive the car hard until the oils up at 90 degrees but realised that I didn’t have any power low down like it should?

    Anyhow turned round to go home and power came back so got her warm and all was normal again? I’m suspecting a coil pack and the revs were not smooth at 4000rpm either, perfectly fine now but eml light still on. Also a slight hunt a idle which has now gone as well.

    Also noticed a couple times from a cold start a slight hiccup when starting?

    Cheers
     
  2. 7 Oct 2018 at 7:13 PM #2
    j3nks79

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    Crystal ball time. Or just plug it in to find out what the actual problem is
     
  3. 7 Oct 2018 at 10:25 PM #3
    coxym125

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    Yep, mates got his own garage and diagnostics kit so hoping it’s a simple coil pack error, will report back
     
  4. 7 Oct 2018 at 11:05 PM #4
    m3rosco

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    It's moments like this that it's handy to have a Carly codereader in the glovebox. Hope it's a simple fix mate!
     
  5. 8 Oct 2018 at 9:02 PM #5
    NUTINRILA

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    Possibly the TPS
     
  6. 8 Oct 2018 at 10:45 PM #6
    ButcherBoy

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    Had the same symptoms and was the tps, hopefully its it, and hopefully its the front one. Get the codes checked, good luck.
     
  7. 10 Oct 2018 at 7:35 PM #7
    coxym125

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    Got the codes read tonight and wasn’t expecting this to be honest?

    My explanation is i parked the car nose up on the drive which I’ve never done so maybe oil drained out of vanos unit? Car hadn’t been driven in two weeks either?

    When I came to start the car tonight the eml was off and all was well?
    [​IMG]85726143-4D61-4205-9BA6-D3F9559F711A by Matthew cox, on Flickr
     
  8. 11 Oct 2018 at 11:13 AM #8
    j3nks79

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    Could be the vanos solenoid pack
     
  9. 11 Oct 2018 at 11:52 AM #9
    Coops

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  10. 11 Oct 2018 at 12:12 PM #10
    monkeyboy

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    Had something similar the other week, changed the vanos solenoid and still had the fault, the issue was the solenoid valve body was gunked up and was not advancing/retarding the cams, take it off it’s only 5 bolts remove the vanos solenoid, and soak the big silver Ali valve block in petrol over night then use a magnet to see if the internal valves click, lots of you tube vids on this, I did this and car is better than ever. I’d definatley do that 1st before spending money on vanos solenoid.
     
  11. 11 Oct 2018 at 1:48 PM #11
    matty872

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    I can do you refurbished solonoid block and coilpack on exchange basis if you need, alot cheaper than the besian one.
     
  12. 11 Oct 2018 at 3:08 PM #12
    coxym125

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    Thanks for the input chaps, much appreciated.

    After the codes were read we cleared them started and ran the car for a bit and the they didn’t return, the eml light was off when I started the car to pop it down to my mates for the codes to be read as well and still hasn’t come back on.

    Just got back from work, 20 mile round trip and it’s been fine so fingers crossed, one thing it always done though is where the power can by quite steppy/jerky as it comes in when flooring it from say 1500rpm in third forth? I remember my last m3 was similar so I take it that’s the vanos kicking in to give the low down tourque, it’s not bad just noticeable

    Looking to get an oil service done ASAP a t a local independent so might get his opinion on it as he was mustard with the smg pump on the last m3.

    Might try that trick though monkeyboy and I’ll pm you regarding costs matty872

    Cheers:thumbsup:
     
  13. 11 Oct 2018 at 3:13 PM #13
    monkeyboy

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    Dude it’s obviously not the vanos solenoid then, I m pretty certain it’s goong to be the valve body oil ways gunked up, as I had the same symptoms and same fault code, another member on another forum messaged me directly about the valve body I did it and car runs Better than ever, even a tiny ‘hiccup’ I’d get very occasionally under load went, the car pulled better cleaner quicker than before I’ll be doing it every year to keep on top of it as it’s so so easy. You need to make sure you hear clear clicking when cleaning it, in fact both inlet & exhaust valves didn’t click as we’re both valves were blocked, even though I only had the fault on the exhaust side.
     
  14. 11 Oct 2018 at 6:00 PM #14
    coxym125

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    Good info mate thanks:thumbsup:

    Sounds like a great diy so I’ll look into it:D
     
  15. 11 Oct 2018 at 6:14 PM #15
    monkeyboy

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    If you go onto the beisan website it tells you how to do it, you have to torque the bolts on the valve body and vanos solenoid when you put them back on but it’s like 10nm & 14nm or something like that but it tells you on the besain site how to do it step by step
     
  16. 11 Oct 2018 at 9:54 PM #16
    coxym125

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    Cheers i’ll check it out:thumbsup:
     
  17. 12 Oct 2018 at 11:51 AM #17
    j3nks79

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    Don’t rule out the solenoid pack if it’s lacking power lower down.
    Open it up and re solder the joints. Takes less than an hour to do
     
  18. 12 Oct 2018 at 6:22 PM #18
    coxym125

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    Thanks mate, i’ll look into it:thumbsup:
     
  19. 15 Oct 2018 at 11:43 AM #19
    EmptyTrash

    EmptyTrash A mere Chipper

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    Hi

    this might be your tps sensors!

    have a look at this video
    https://m.youtube .com/watch?v=M0HCxkrK1Dw
     

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