Discussion in 'E46 M3 (2001-2006)' started by DoZZa, Feb 23, 2010.
Why thank you Chosen One
Glad I can be of help, to be honest it sounds and looks more complicated than it really is.
Hi Peeps want do this on my coupe with HK, just wandering there is a black box next to where the HK subs sit with wires going in and out is this the HK amp? also was wandering my local audio store sell a sub and amp package the sales guy advised the amp will accept high level frequency is this same as differential frequency the socket that connects the high level frequency is rectangular and is already spliced for rr+ rr- etc it also uses a ground, do you guys think this would work? also has anybody experienced any interference by doing this upgrade?
I fin\lly got round to installing a JL monoblock amp today and 2x JL subs in the custom enclosures, was a piece of cake to do following DoZZa's excellant guide and I'm very happy with the new bass... much better than I had actually anticipated.
However... I now have 2 problems.
1) My Intravee doesn't work (still shows tracks on the HU, but no sound), and
2) THe subs do not mute when my phone rings (im running a Parrot bluetooth kit which has the auto-mute function) so I still have the subs working when the call is coming through the car speakers!
Any help / advice greatly appreciated as I don't fancy taking it all back out again! lol
Right, turns out that whilst fitting the subs and amp in the boot, i'd accidentaly pulled the Audio lead from the intravee so that is now working again.
Just leaves me with the problem of the subs not muting when I get a call? Any ideas? The feed is taken pre-amp as per DoZZa's suggestions but can't see a way round this if the bluetooth kit connects at the amp, presumably thats why the bluetooth isn't recognising/muting the subs?
Interesting one, I will have a think about this.
Anyone know which 2 are + and which 2 are - from the 4 wires that feed the original ski hatch sub in the vert
colours are pos ie blue and yellow and browns are neg
Dozza - where you say you should disconnect the battery - I think it'd be good to mention the proper "power down procedure" to stop people ruining their nav units (or whatever it's supposed to cause problems for).
lol , they were labelled inside the sub
differnt colours than those tho
Thought they might of been the same as the speakers
Where abouts does the wire run to the sub, is it under the seat or inside the boot, gunna try and pull my loom back to see if its in there anywhere
I thought the amp for the sub was a separate item from the main amp?
Great article DoZZa. Thanks.
I'm going to have a bash at this soon as I'm missing the bass in the HK setup. I had a Z4 and a 645ci previously (the six lasted a month as it bored the crap out of me but the hifi was amazing). Those cars had much better systems all round.
Anyway, sorry to ask guys but I have a few questions please.
Will just upgrading the Sub with a dedicated amp work well or will it make the rest of the components sound sh*te and overpower them?
From what I can make out you guys are running a 10" square sub. Would you recommend the following or do you think that they'd drown out the rest of the speakers etc:
Kicker ZX500.1 Mono Amp £244.97
Kicker Solo Baric L7 08S10L74 Subwoofer £199.97
All in at roughly £444 not inc power lines and Line out cables.
I also saw cheaper Kicker subs and a JL amp like these:
JL Audio JLJ21000.1 £280.49
JL Audio JLJ2-500.1 £169.99
If I can avoid uprating the rest of the speakers and having to add more amps that would be great. Finally, do any of these subs come with custom mounts as I'm guessing that's a requirement to replace the HK sub unit?
P.S. As one of the guys mentioned, do you have to eject the Nav DVD and wait a few mins until the light goes out to avoid blowing the nav system before disconnecting the battery etc?
Stupid question to end with, how do you add a rep for someone posting good info? I rated the thread but can't see where you add rep...
Bit of a late response to your post and I would imagine that you have already bought the setup you are going to use.
Anyway, any of the above will work and sound good.
As for the new sub worsening the other speakers, yes, I suppose in a way this would have that effect.
I suppose the way round that without replacing all of the speakers is to install some kind of remote control for the subwoofer volume, this way the volume of the sub can be controlled independently from the rest of the system, this will allow you to match the sub volume to the type of music and level of volume you are listening at.
This has just been done
this is a superb writeup mate, im going to have a good at this soon
Great write up, just need to sort this out now.
So for an totally none technical guys what does one need to buy and how much in total for it all?
Glad I found this sticky. My H/K sub mounted under the parcel shelf rattles it's head off when turned on. Actually can't turn hk on much as its really annoying.
Just want to clarify once I've fitted the aftermarket amp and sub I can ditch my pesky Hk sub.
Whats the different between differential balanced input and a LOC ?
I am after more sound quality so would prefer not to use a LOC
Also do I need left and right positive and negative rear fed into the new cable ?
Bit of a noob on wiring sorry