Car won't start help!!!!

Discussion in 'E46 M3 (2001-2006)' started by TouringRob, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. 10 Apr 2018 at 11:02 AM #21
    TouringRob

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    So, last night I removed the rear bench and fuel pump cover, ran the pump test in INPA and the pump is silent, as in doing nothing!

    Amazed at the amount of crud that has collected under the cover!!!

    [​IMG]

    Enabling the fuel pump relay gave volts at the input to the pump:

    [​IMG]

    So with that ammo I went ahead and purchased an HRC fuel pump - I will take some pics of the install and keep this updated for future members cars with similar symptoms.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2018
  2. 16 Apr 2018 at 11:27 AM #22
    TouringRob

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    Right, car is all fixed and working again :) Big thanks to a 7DT a forum member who sold me a Radium adapter sleeve on short notice!!!

    For any one this may help!

    I started out by hovering as much rubbish from the area as possible, didn't want to drop anything back into the tank.
    [​IMG]

    Next up, disconnect the fuel hose by squeezing the little tabs either side of the connector, I found it useful to push the connector onto the outlet first:
    [​IMG]

    Take a decent sized flat drift or chunky screw driver + hammer and knock the retaining collar anti clock wise to release.
    [​IMG]

    Release pump connector by pushing connector shroud away from connector, said chunky driver is perfect for this too.
    [​IMG]

    With connector, fuel hose and retaining collar removed you can nor use the convenient finger pull to carefully lift the pump out of the tank, don't go too fast as you need to guide fuel hose and level out of the hole by angling the assembly.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In side of tank looks good and clean, happy days.
    [​IMG]

    Reinstall the inspection hatch to avoid filling your car up with fumes
    [​IMG]
     
  3. 16 Apr 2018 at 11:37 AM #23
    TouringRob

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    With pump on the table start to remove bits!

    Remove, clean and keep safe the large rubber O-ring, mine was totally virgin however it might be wise to get a new part in preparation. Be careful not to bend the float about as its a bit feeble.
    [​IMG]

    Start but removing the fuel pump rubber holder things, gently pry out with a driver
    [​IMG]

    Once all three are out, and you have disconnected the pump feed wires you can tilt the pump out of the main frame, leaving you to disconnect the fuel hose more easily. I just stuck a screw driver into the little ear on the OEM clamp to release.
    [​IMG]

    Image below shows new HRC 255 pump with Radium adapter sleeve, HRC do supply the pump with a foam type sleeve which you kind of wedge into the holder, however I just didn't want the aggravation of the pump slipping out or something daft like that in the future. 7DT got in touch and offered me his new spare Radium adapter, the Radium adapter was out of stock with Hack so would have been a 5-10 day wait.
    [​IMG]

    New HRC pump is both smaller in length and diameter than OEM, I offered both pumps up to one another trying to match inlet height to keep pump roughly in the same location as stock,
    [​IMG]

    Mark sleeve height with pen/pencil:
    [​IMG]

    Spend a few moments retrieving stolen tools:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. 16 Apr 2018 at 11:44 AM #24
    TouringRob

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    Now is a good time to remove the plastic pump holder from the pump,

    This was a bit fiddly, but by levering open a tang at a time and pulling the pump through worked.
    [​IMG]

    It was at this point that a large floor with the Radium sleeve adapter became apparent. The adapter does a good job of holding the pump within the frame height wise but has nothing to stop the pump from rotating within the frame grrr, I didn't really want the pump vibrating around and fatiguing wires and cables.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/2HPCHnTXDqwIxe3k1

    OEM pump anti rotate tab (missing from Radium adapter):
    [​IMG]

    A quick, but slightly dirty solution was to cut a little plastic from pump frame that the head of the jubilee clip could sit in, providing anti rotate. If you do this, be careful, the plastic is horribly brittle!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All done - onto wiring!
    [​IMG]
     
  5. 16 Apr 2018 at 12:00 PM #25
    TouringRob

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    Most places recommend crimping the terminals.

    I am actually really against that as most people do not own good enough quality crimp tools to make a good job of this, me included. I usually end up soldering the wire into the crimp to be 100% sure its making a good connection. At that point you may as well just solder the new fuel pump connector into the BMW frame connector.

    Its important to note that soldered joints are more prone to fatigue than crimped joints. This is because the solder wicks up the wire strands making the cable stiff. A good solution to this is to only tin the ends of the wire and to use heat shrink to strain relief the cables, you want to remove as pump pull/vibration from your soldered joint as possible to mitigate the risk of fatigue.

    Insert the pump into the holder to get a good idea of required cable length, then trim your new pump wires to length.
    [​IMG]

    Find soldering iron in loft!
    [​IMG]

    Remember to slip heat shrink over cables BEFORE soldering :)
    [​IMG]

    Bravely cut wires from the OEM connector as close to the base of crimp cup as possible
    [​IMG]

    Re-solder new wires
    [​IMG]

    At this point I took a few moments to clean up the assembly and to shrink the heatshirink.

    From this point on reassembly is largely the opposite of disassembly. Make sure you use good quality fuel clips, HRC kindly supply a new fuel hose with clips, but their clips are a little poor, sadly I had no choice but to use them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. 16 Apr 2018 at 12:11 PM #26
    TouringRob

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    With everything back together you can now install the new filter sock. Install the rubber O-ring first and lube up with a touch of silicone grease or Vaseline.

    [​IMG]

    Drop pump assembly into place, guiding filer sock and level carefully though aperture
    [​IMG]

    Button up and test!

    [​IMG]

    I also took the opportunity to give the underside of the seats a good hover and clean, looked like some teenagers had been living under there for a while

    [​IMG]


    Enjoy, hope that helps someone in my position at some point!
     
  7. 21 Apr 2018 at 10:05 PM #27
    TATI

    TATI On the path

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    Hi

    just been reading your post - i am in need of some info - which is the air con compressor relay?- as i look at my relays behind the glove box i have going from the left - GREEN , GREEN , ORANGE , GREEN. these are facing you also on the right hand side there are 2 other relays on the side. I have Looked at M3 manual but its for left hookers without headlight washers and shows 2 air compressor relays = can you help
    please? Thanks
     
  8. 21 Apr 2018 at 11:12 PM #28
    E46CoupeM3

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    Pics are not visible
     
  9. 22 Apr 2018 at 1:57 PM #29
    TouringRob

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    Ahh thats soo gay, thought I had cracked sharing pics from my google account!

    I'll try to work out what the issue is.
     
  10. 22 Apr 2018 at 1:58 PM #30
    TouringRob

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    Sorry pics aren't working :( The relays seem to be the opposite of the US picture, when you cycle your ignition you can very easily feel the fuel pump relay as it clicks. Start from that as a know position, AC relay is I think the one to the right of this (from memory third from left).

    Rob,
     
  11. 22 Apr 2018 at 2:18 PM #31
    7DT

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    Nice! When i get round to redoing mine (although it's working, so maybe I should obey murphy's law) i might get some pointers off you!

    Pics wise, i've been using bbimg, but i don't know how long they live for on there
     

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