Boot floor creak

Discussion in 'Redish Motorsport' started by loz dogg, Aug 16, 2017.

  1. 16 Aug 2017 at 11:05 PM #1
    loz dogg

    loz dogg Rocking a new hat

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    Hi James

    Had you inspect my floor a little while back, pheonix yellow with the bonded on plates! Bought your kit not long after and followed your instructions.

    Just recently iv noticed a slight creak when moving slowly forwards an backwards over uneven ground, sounds like its coming from the passenger side rear trailing arm bush area, anything you can recommend inspecting?

    Im still yet to weld the crack on the top of the front drivers side mount and also when I took my diff out the other day I can see a few more spot welds have popped through the por 15!

    Do you think these couple of bits could cause it to creak? And also, why do you think the spot welds are still letting go?

    Many thanks mate

    Loz
     
  2. 17 Aug 2017 at 4:49 PM #2
    James@Redish

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    Hi Loz,

    Thanks for the message.

    I remember the car now you mention about the bonded plates.

    It could be creaking for a number of reasons and from a number of areas.
    First thing would be to diagnose if it's a metallic creak from chassis metalwork, or whether it's an internal trim related creak.

    If it's coming from the RTA Pocket area, it may be a split or separate from the RTA Pockets which has been a recently new topic - especially with USA owners:
    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=583566


    You had a hard challenge to be fair as you had to remove someone else's bonded plates, then had to weld on top of area's already worked.

    Did you drill out and replace the spot weld in this picture with a plug weld to help reattach the RACPanel to the left chassis leg in the boot.
    This is one of the pictures I took when we carried out a Subframe Check for you.
    EDIT: decided it was quicker to record a quick video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32LrzU1g_h4

    It's worth getting that internal crack welded as soon as you can. (Remember to remove the plastic fuel tank as it's directly below where you'll be welding inside the car).

    Do you have any pictures of those popped spot welds you've noticed. Would be interesting to see, which also may help be able to offer advice.

    They could be popping (if definitely popped) due to RACPanel fatigue in a number of area's - mostly where it tries to break away from the chassis legs inside the car.

    Yes popped spot welds could cause a creak. It's hard to say why you may have popped spot welds but if the RACP still has available movement/flex in certain locations then that can cause other spot welds to be stressed which in turn can pop.

    You're more than welcome to book in for an assessment if you like, and we can help you identify a few area's where you may need to concentrate on.

    Best regards,
    James :)
     
  3. 17 Aug 2017 at 9:11 PM #3
    loz dogg

    loz dogg Rocking a new hat

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    Hi James

    Thank you very much for taking the time to write that response, thats service for you!!!

    Yes, all the popped spot welds were plug welded as explained by you the process to do this and also not by me, by someone who can actually weld and knew what you were talking about when I mentioned plug welding, so we are confident that we got all the popped ones, that were gone at the time anyway.

    The interior is stripped in the back end and I had a mate sit back there whilst I rocked the car back an forwards over uneven ground and its definitely coming from the passenger side trailing arm area. I had read about the pockets seperating, apparently quite common in the E36's? I have checked these pockets though and nothing seems to be untoward. Its a case of telling whether its a rubber binding noise or a metal creaking noise now though.

    Sub frame will be coming out regardless now to re weld the new popped spot welds and yes currently looking into a cage with sub from pick up points which is why the hair line crack on top of the drivers side from mount inside the car has not yet been seen to.

    Il email you a picture of the new popped spot welds as like you say, photobucket being gone is a nightmare now lol Its basically right about the diff carrier.

    Thanks James, will keep you updated

    Loz
     
  4. 18 Aug 2017 at 9:58 AM #4
    James@Redish

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    Hi Loz,

    Thanks for the reply and info.

    I've just thought of another area for you to check.
    We've seen a few cars with popped spot welds on the Seat Panel (down the sides). which told us that there was metal 'rubbing' (ever so slightly) but possibly enough to make a metallic creak I'd imagine.

    Here's the video to explain it better:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9odwlWf8C4

    Yes, please do email us a picture and I'll take a look and let you know our thoughts, and also try to offer some repair advice.
    (Email on our website: http://redish-motorsport.com/ContactUs.html )

    Let us know if we can help further.
    Best regards,
    James :)
     
  5. 18 Aug 2017 at 10:30 AM #5
    loz dogg

    loz dogg Rocking a new hat

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    Hi James

    Iv emailed over the pics just now, hard to get a good view!

    Christ, you've got me worried now regarding those seat rails, that is very possible thats whats happened to mine!!!

    Whats the best way of removing all the seam sealer etc do you think?

    Where else can these bloody things let go? I think im just going to strip the lot and just plug weld any spots that have gone and then just stitch weld as many panels as I can see and then just cage the car and pick up the 4 sub frame mounting points!

    Really want to go have a look at where you just mentioned!!! Wont be till tomorrow morning now though! Any where else to look? You think the drivers side arch needs stich welding as well?

    Thanks again for your help

    Loz
     
  6. 21 Aug 2017 at 3:24 PM #6
    loz dogg

    loz dogg Rocking a new hat

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    Hi James

    Did you get my email with the pictures?

    Going to start taking off the seam sealer this week and inspecting it, any good ways of removing the stuff?

    So I have now stop drilled the cracks and welded them, welded the plates over the top, welded the passenger side wheel arch and cut holes in the metal revealing the tops of the sub frame mounts and indeed the front driver side being cracked.

    Going to take all the por 15 back off and inspect as much as possible underneath, stitch weld as much as possible every panel I can see meeting each other, inspect the trailing arm pockets as much as possible and then move inside the car and inspec these new ares next to the seats. I am then going to install a welded in cage picking up the four mounts and hopefully loosing this problem, the cage business is why I have held off repairing the front drivers side crack on the top of the mount.

    Anything else you can think of?

    Thanks again for your time and help

    Loz
     

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