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Old 18th January 2011, 11:07 PM   #41
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I can't wait to have my garage and hosepipe back

This is a wicked thread.
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Old 30th January 2011, 07:03 PM   #42
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Really good thread, thanks Bruno for pointing me in the right direction
In your opinion what is the best product at removing swirl marks and uneven waxing for the average Joe Bloggs?

Also what's the best product for cleaning car mats and carpets without it smelling of cleaner?
I've read a lot about baking soda being very good at removing odours from carpets/mats what's your opinion? I've also read that white vinegar can help with this, but surely your car will just smell like a chippy?

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Old 30th January 2011, 07:11 PM   #43
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Really good thread, thanks Bruno for pointing me in the right direction
In your opinion what is the best product at removing swirl marks and uneven waxing for the average Joe Bloggs?
I'm pleased it's of some use. How long is a piece of string? Lol

By hand or DA I would go for something like dodo juice lime prime as its marginally abrassive and I have achieved good results.

I'm generally a menzerna man and sometimes a 3M man applied by rotary but I wouldn't advise that route for a newbie.

As with any correction process always begin with the least aggressive compound and pad and work your way up from there.

Count yourself lucky you haven't got an E9x in Jerez black which needs wet sanding to correct the orange peel.

Baki g powder works well IMO as do some of the odour eliminators made by most leading product manufacturers although a good shampoo with a wet vac should remove most odour
The only decent Jerez ive seen is Ian's (Alpina527)
Any help you need fire away Toby

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Old 30th January 2011, 07:21 PM   #44
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I'm pleased it's of some use. How long is a piece of string? Lol


Quote:
By hand or DA I would go for something like dodo juice lime prime as its marginally abrassive and I have achieved good results.
At what stage would you do this process, and can you buy that stuff at any old motor shop?

Quote:
Count yourself lucky you haven't got an E9x in Jerez black which needs wet sanding to correct the orange peel
Err, take a look at my profile, that's exactly what I have

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Any help you need fire away Toby
Thanks, really appreciate it
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Old 30th January 2011, 07:35 PM   #45
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At what stage would you do this process, and can you buy that stuff at any old motor shop?
You ideally apply it after fully washing, claying and drying the paint mate. Buy it online / eBay etc it's not expensive mate

Err, take a look at my profile, that's exactly what I have
Aaaaaah forgot you changed yours, awesome colour once detailed but I fear that uneven wax you talk of is orange peel and no amount of lime prime will get that out, it needs wet flatting/ sanding

Thanks, really appreciate it
anytime mate
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Old 30th January 2011, 08:03 PM   #46
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anytime mate
Err I've always had Jerez Black
Not swapped it yet but should be doing so this week, for another Jerez Black. It's not the orangepeel I've been referring to, it's the wax/sealant/polish or something. In certain lights you can see what I assume is wax/polish circles/swirls/patches (not the tiny swirl scratches). Had it on every car I've owned and just assume it's the way I wax/polish the car, obviously it shows up more on black. I'll try to take a photo one day to show you what I mean. It looks worse in very bright sunlight or at night under artificial light, it's no biggie though
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Old 31st January 2011, 04:12 PM   #47
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Bruno, this is what I meant by 'uneven' waxing. I'm sure you'll call it something else, maybe even what you refer to as swirls (I call swirls the tiny scratches forming swirls). My car's not as bad as this, but in sunlight and from certain angles it can look pretty bad. After doing a little bit of research I believe it's due to someone (usually the dealer) using a rotary buffer? What the best way to get rid of this horrendous 'pattern'?

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Old 31st January 2011, 04:46 PM   #48
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That's shocking, that is caused by giving a rotary to an idiot who doesn't know what pad, compound or technique to use mate. You'd need a detailer to correct that, it's not a big job assuming there's no strike through or it would need bodyshop attention
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Old 31st January 2011, 05:31 PM   #49
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That's shocking, that is caused by giving a rotary to an idiot who doesn't know what pad, compound or technique to use mate. You'd need a detailer to correct that, it's not a big job assuming there's no strike through or it would need bodyshop attention
OK, thanks again. Like I said, mine isn't/wasn't quite as bad as that, and hopefully the 'new' one will be much better. At least I know something can be done if it is
Obviously the last 2 Scoobies and my M have all been worked on by muppets as they all had this kind of thing going on to varying degrees
I would like to point out that I've never used a rotary or any other machine on my cars, so I can't take the blame
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Old 31st January 2011, 09:02 PM   #50
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BLIMEY....one of the worst examples I have seen, and I've seen a few...either bodyshop Muppet or professional amateur enthusiast weekend detailer, as Brunberg says, recoverable and easy to do depending on condition of paint....
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Old 1st February 2011, 08:03 AM   #51
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how does that happen? ie to much time in the same area or to much compound?
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Old 1st February 2011, 08:22 AM   #52
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Too much compound not enough time as product hasnt been broken down, plus heavy cut compounds need refining to remove the marring that it causes through its heavy abrasives....
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Old 1st February 2011, 08:41 AM   #53
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i know when i did my vectra i used g3 and broke it down, after the first application of compound i then went over it twice with just water,i also noticed the speed of the mop head made a big difference,i didnt have any swirl marks either.
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Old 1st February 2011, 08:56 AM   #54
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awesome write up cheers mate. Just paying attention to detail (maybe a little too much) the 1st video where he is cleaning the car with 2 buckets, when he is cleaning the bottom of the car, i think he gets his buckets confused and rinses his mit off in his shampoo bucket and then puts it in the rinse bucket or he had swapped them around off camera for some reason?! lol
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Old 1st February 2011, 09:05 AM   #55
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no mate the amount of water in the bucket gives it away slightly, more in the rinse and less in the wash.....
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Old 1st February 2011, 09:47 AM   #56
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ah well spotted. i would love all his kit and a place to spend that amount cleaning my car.
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Old 1st February 2011, 07:16 PM   #57
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As reflectolo says no refinement to remove marring and not broken down

With rotary polishing you apply at lowest available speed starting with fast movements then slowly to ensure even coverage

Once spread increase the speed slightly

Once polish is is working step up to 1500-2000 rpm, product goes cloudy (but is not yet broken down, this is where amateurs go wrong)

Now you keep working the product until it goes clear and get your shine by working back down the rpm range

Do small areas at a time.

This is very basic but gives you an idea

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Old 4th February 2011, 03:13 PM   #58
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Brunberg, thanks for that great read.

Could you please advise of good wash product's (soap/sponges ect) to use on a weekly basis?

Cheers,

Drol.

Last edited by Drol; 4th February 2011 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 4th February 2011, 04:05 PM   #59
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Hiya Drol, just a swift answer but Dodo Juice Sour Power, it has gloss enhancers in it, but in all honesty there are loads of shampoos that will do a fine job if you use a mitt, 2 buckets with the grit guards, a quick detailer afterwards would further enhance it...

Last edited by Reflectolo; 4th February 2011 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 25th February 2011, 01:57 PM   #60
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quick question Bruno.... Did you say in the right up you use a sealant after polishing and before waxing? And then over the course of the year you'd just top up the wax with a sealant? Am I getting that right?

What kind of sealant do you mean - something like the Red Mist etc...? Or something entirely different?

And what's the reason for sealant, then wax?

At the moment I'm polishing with Zymol HD or Menzerna final finish and then going straight to Dodo Supernatural.

Cheers,

Chris
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