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Old 14th July 2017, 04:44 PM   #21
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If one nozzle doesn't work or is off, they both won't work. Generally if you know what side the leak is on, then you'll know which one.

I had this issue, turned out my telescopic pump had split where the pipe goes on and I needed a new one.

If you're lucky it'll just need a new plastic clip, if unlucky a new telescopic thing.
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Old 14th July 2017, 04:49 PM   #22
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I have two telescopic things if anyone needs them!
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Old 18th July 2017, 08:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7DT View Post
If one nozzle doesn't work or is off, they both won't work. Generally if you know what side the leak is on, then you'll know which one.

I had this issue, turned out my telescopic pump had split where the pipe goes on and I needed a new one.

If you're lucky it'll just need a new plastic clip, if unlucky a new telescopic thing.
Thanks didn't know that. When I retested them the near side left a puddle on the floor and the offside did nothing. Haven't had time to investigate further, more important things took over, but you're the first to mention that. I'll address the nearside first.
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Old 12th August 2017, 12:04 PM   #24
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Sorry about this thread resurrection but had bigger fish to fry so ignored this problem for now. However, mot next month so need to sort it. Firstly thanks to all who gave advice previously. So with headlights and ignition on pressed squirters and no movement of either telescopic panels but a puddle under nearside wing. If I've understood correctly now, and I don't think I did originally, it's likely the pipe the pipe has come off the telescopic arm and I will have to remove the headlight to access? Great pity some of the older thread links do not now show the photos which make understanding a lot easier! Cheers guys and thanks for your patience.
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Old 12th August 2017, 12:44 PM   #25
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Do your screen washers work? If they do, and the washer tank doesn't empty itself in a matter of days it suggests a previous owner has attempted to disable the headlight washers.

Things to check:
1. Are the connectors for both washer pumps (the smaller one is for the screen, the larger is for the headlights) plugged in?
2. Do both pumps work?
3. Is the inlet to the headlight washer pump clear? Blocking the inlet to the headlight washer pump with the finger of a rubber glove is one way to stop the tank from draining.
4. Are all of the hoses to the headlight washer jets connected and free of hose clamps or plugs?

If everything is connected, working, unblocked etc, the seals in one or both of the telescopic assemblies have failed and will need to be replaced. The parts aren't expensive, but the headlights have to come out. This can be a pain if the bolts/captive nuts on the lower mounts (one at the back, one toward the middle of the car) are badly corroded, and might lead to pumps being disconnected or blocked, and hoses being clamped/plugged.

HTH
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Old 12th August 2017, 12:47 PM   #26
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Get someone in the car making the washers squirt and have a look under the bonnet see if you can see where it's coming from? If the tube has come off the telescopic arm it is highly likely that you will need a new retaining clip which is pennies from a dealer.

5 says it's the retaining clip.

My advice would be buy a clip or two. Then remove the headlight and diagnose the issue. This way if it is the clip you don't have to reassemble and remove the headlight twice as you already have the part.

Last edited by ADL; 12th August 2017 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 12th August 2017, 06:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Do your screen washers work? If they do, and the washer tank doesn't empty itself in a matter of days it suggests a previous owner has attempted to disable the headlight washers.

Things to check:
1. Are the connectors for both washer pumps (the smaller one is for the screen, the larger is for the headlights) plugged in?
2. Do both pumps work?
3. Is the inlet to the headlight washer pump clear? Blocking the inlet to the headlight washer pump with the finger of a rubber glove is one way to stop the tank from draining.
4. Are all of the hoses to the headlight washer jets connected and free of hose clamps or plugs?

If everything is connected, working, unblocked etc, the seals in one or both of the telescopic assemblies have failed and will need to be replaced. The parts aren't expensive, but the headlights have to come out. This can be a pain if the bolts/captive nuts on the lower mounts (one at the back, one toward the middle of the car) are badly corroded, and might lead to pumps being disconnected or blocked, and hoses being clamped/plugged.

HTH
Thanks for the reply. Windscreen washers working and I'm assuming the electrics and pipes are ok up to near the headlight as the fluid appears on the floor only when first press the squirters. I think there must be a break near there.
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Old 12th August 2017, 06:13 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ADL View Post
Get someone in the car making the washers squirt and have a look under the bonnet see if you can see where it's coming from? If the tube has come off the telescopic arm it is highly likely that you will need a new retaining clip which is pennies from a dealer.

5 says it's the retaining clip.

My advice would be buy a clip or two. Then remove the headlight and diagnose the issue. This way if it is the clip you don't have to reassemble and remove the headlight twice as you already have the part.
Thanks for the tip. Hope that's the case and it's a cheap fix. Tried to look on realoem for the part no. but couldn't find any part of the headlight washer system.
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Old 12th August 2017, 06:43 PM   #29
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The only snag with that is - if a hose has come off - the washer tank will drain in minutes.

So, going back to an earlier post, it sounds like it might just be the nozzle, but could still be the telescopic bit.

The whole plate moves out when the headlight washers fire, so in line with the earlier advice, don't just grab the top edge and yank.

The nozzle assembly can be extended by sticking your fingernails in along both edges and pulling - gently...
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Old 12th August 2017, 08:21 PM   #30
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I found i had to take off the headlights to get to the telescopic bit doesn't take long to do. fitting a new one is easy, and fitting a plastic clip is even easier. if the puddle is nearisde then depending on whether you need the car, either take headlight off and see what you need, and then order it, or, order a telescopic bit and a clip, and then take the headlight off.

it's not hard at all
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Old 12th August 2017, 08:36 PM   #31
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thanks for the tip. Hope that's the case and it's a cheap fix. Tried to look on realoem for the part no. But couldn't find any part of the headlight washer system.
61670004457
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Old 13th August 2017, 09:38 AM   #32
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61670004457
Thanks ADL, appreciate that. So much easier when going into the Parts Dept.

And thank you all guys. All fired up armed with all this info to now tackle the job!
Cheers.
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Old 14th August 2017, 07:37 AM   #33
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Thanks ADL, appreciate that. So much easier when going into the Parts Dept.

And thank you all guys. All fired up armed with all this info to now tackle the job!
Cheers.
Good luck, although sure you won't need it
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Old 15th August 2017, 08:18 AM   #34
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Made a start and extended the telescopic squirter and no apparent breaks there but I'll need to disconnect by twisting and pulling? Identified the four headlamp screws but having a problem working out how the trim piece under the headlight unclips near the indicator.
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Old 15th August 2017, 09:27 AM   #35
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I wouldn't let these mofos near my car but this video is helpful.
https://youtu.be/lXFA6NU7snE

I would also suggest not removing the headlight electrical connections as they are a pain but instead getting a towel over your front bumper and letting it rest there while you change the hose clip/telescopic thing.
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Old 15th August 2017, 10:21 AM   #36
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Made a start and extended the telescopic squirter and no apparent breaks there but I'll need to disconnect by twisting and pulling? Identified the four headlamp screws but having a problem working out how the trim piece under the headlight unclips near the indicator.
The trim bit literally pulls out, I think I remove mine by pulling nearest to the grill first, and then slowly wiggling it out, then it should unhook under the indicator.

I literally looked up on youtube how to do it. Even if you even up bending the metal on the front wing it clips into, it's dead easy to bend back, so don't worry.

The break won't be on the telescopic extension, you'll find it's either not connected on the rear of it where the rubber hose attached (ie, plastic clip broken/missing), or that the join between the input nozzle and the telescopic thing is broken or cracked (as it was on mine). The former is just put a new plastic clip on, the second is a new telescopic thingy (I really should remember the correct name for this)

As for removing the headlight connectors, dead easy, and they all only fit in one place, so you can't accidentally hook them up wrong.
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Old 15th August 2017, 10:23 AM   #37
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Removing my headlight electrical connectors was a bitch because of the csl airbox. U might be ok.
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Old 15th August 2017, 08:18 PM   #38
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So tackled this today with all your help and this is what I found after establishing there were no breaks in the telescopic squirters:
Releasing, not removing the trim panel below the headlight: the plastic connector under the indicator has a tab not visible on the inside of the trim that has to be depressed with a small blade screwdriver but it will only release when the tab on another connector to the headlight unit about 3in inwards is depressed by hand simultaneously. The connector on the opposite end of this trim panel closest to the fan is easily visible and released by hand. Having done this the panel can be pulled forward on the telescopic squirter arm without being removed. After the four headlight screws were removed the headlight could be pulled forward against the previously disconnected trim panel without disturbing any electrical connectors. Visibility and access was still not good so I removed the air box trunking. Then I could see what the problem was although I wasn't sure initially what I was looking for. A pipe with a plastic connector on the end was free. Having established where it should be connected to I could see the plastic retaining clip was still in place and not broken. There is little blob of plastic on the inner arch of the clip which obviously connects to a hole in the plastic connector on the pipe to retain it. I think these were not connected previously, hence the problem. After reconnection and a few primes on the washers both squirters working fine. It's also worth noting there is a small rubber O ring on the connector on the end of the pipe which is another potential source of leakage. Don't know if this is available as a separate part.
So what have I learned with your help? It wasn't necessary to disconnect much. This minimises creating additional problems whilst solving the original one. With so much movement on the four headlight retaining screws I can't imagine the alignment hasn't been disturbed but I may be wrong. And if you want to find the most efficient way of doing a job find the laziest man!
Thanks again all!
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Old 15th August 2017, 09:43 PM   #39
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Glad you got it sorted mate. I love helping other men with their ejaculation problems.
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Old 15th August 2017, 10:15 PM   #40
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Awesome, glad you got it sorted!
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