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Old 24th May 2018, 08:45 AM   #1
daniel782
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Default 330ci Idle Issue

Hi All,

I have just brought a BMW 330CI CAB 2004 AUTO.

When you start the car the idle rasies higher than normal, and then finally after 5mins settles down to the correct rpm.

Once I put the car into gear reverse or drive the idle shoots upto about 1500rpm, and then as I drive away it seeems okay, as soon as I take my foot of the acclerator, the idle starts to bounce. As soon as I put my foot on the acclerator again it drives smooth. After about 10min drive the idle is still high, but stays around 1500rpm. If I turn the car off and start it again, the idle after about 5secs, goes straight to about 600-700 rpm. But as soon as I put it into drive the idle shoots up again. And stays high until I turn the car off again. Somtimes when I stop at traffic lights, junctions. Will it idle correctly.

This also makes the gearbox, behave incorrectly, due to the high revs. It jumps into first at times when I stop.

I have pulled the air mass sensor and it still does it with it disconnected, I have changed the DISA Flap as mine wasn't working, and this has made it better, the above was much worse before I changed it.

Any help would be great.

Cheers Dan
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Old 24th May 2018, 04:00 PM   #2
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Dan - have you got a code reader? Any dash lights triggered??

We have an e46 325 CI - which has pretty much the same M54 engine. It was completely unloved before I got hold of it - and had to run through every single repair affecting lean and rich codes in order to remedy the emissions engine light which kept coming on - as everything was shgged on it (oil breather/ccv system, inlet manifold seals, brake booster venturi pipe, cam cover gasket, MAF, O2 sensor, fuel filter and connecting pipes etc etc etc.

Ideally you need a code reader to see if it's running lean - otherwise you're kinda guessing, but a few relatively easy things to check (i.e. relatively easy-ish to get to and hence free to check.... would be:

1) idle control valve... sounds like the main culprit. Is it filthy? you can soak them in brake cleaner - and if you are brave and delicate, can clean the inner flap with a cotton bud - BUT be VERY careful not to scratch or bend the inner flap - and don't get brake cleaner on the rubber holder/strap which goes around it - as it will stretch/dissolve... They're only 7 though to replace...(the holder...!)

2) are you sure your DISA works - or did you just replace the flap? Did you check whether the DISA diaphragm retains a vacuum?

3) check the fuel pressure from the Schroder valve - or else investigate whether the pipes which attach the fuel filter have perished (there's a hard pipe which runs down the passenger side from the engine bay to the filter - it's attached to the inlet boot "F" fitting and to the actual fuel filter with small diameter flexi hose - and this rots away. The fuel pressure reg is part of the filter and can gunge up)

4) Inlet boot has two branches which have very small bellows/concertina elbows - they can tear and split - but usually pull management light on the dash.

5) Vanos solenoids/unit could be gunged up - ideally need a code reader to check - but the rebuild is pretty straight forward and inexpensive with Beisan parts - much more straight forward than for the S54 M3 engine.

6) oil filler cap might not be sealing properly... worth removing the seal and flipping it over to see if that helps...

Ideally, as mentioned, you need a code reader as is otherwise guess work - but some of the above at least don't require any replacement parts to check things... is strange there's no engine management light - hopefully nothing to do with the auto box - which I don't know much about!!!
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Old 25th May 2018, 05:00 PM   #3
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Thanks for your quick reply,

Yes I have a scanner, nothing great,, but its not bad for what it is.

I have no engine management lights on.

I changed the complete DISA Flap unit, I thought it might be the idle control valve after some research. But you guys have such great knowledge on the forum I thought I'd ask on here as well.

Thanks for all your pointers, I'll hopefully find some time over the weekend to have a look at these issues.

Did you have to take your inlet manifold off to get to the idle control valve??

Thanks Dan
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Old 25th May 2018, 05:43 PM   #4
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Nope. From memory - I did have to remove the DISA though... you can buy replacement o rings for the DISA for a few quid - will dig out the link - you then need to scrape the premoulded orange seal out of your new DISA unit (as it’s a one time seal....) and the after market seal sits in that groove. Bit of washing up liquid and a light tap with a mallet on a block of wood wil help reseat it.

So - DISA off - possibly a cable bracket, then the inlet elbow - which will be a bugger, as BMW fit the jubilee clips upside down at the factory... is doable though. Replace them the right way up for future access. Once the rear inlet boot’s off, the ICV is there. Is a push fit from memory.

Have a look for some you tube videos from the 50s kid. He’s done loads of repairs on these, and I think I followed one of them.

Other culprits could be throttle position sensor or cam position sensors - but really guessing without getting some bmw software like dis or INPA on it.
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Old 25th May 2018, 05:46 PM   #5
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This is the link for the ccv swap - but shows the inherent steps to taking most of the car apart - including ICV...

https://youtu.be/ZDP8Dma0nUs
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